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Manual TransmissionI have a 2002 ford ranger with 5 speed manual transmission and it was shifting fine yesterday, this morning I get in and I can't get it into gear has anyone ever had this problem and if so could it be the Clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder.
Any help would be great. Thanks.
This post has a total of 122 replies. The most recent 25 are shown below, you can view the complete archive here: Manual Transmission archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.
This forum post has messages dated from 08/23/07 through 01/23/13, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
|By the way, I am an ASE master tech that enjoys helping folks out on the weekends and just ran across this forum.|
1.) For those of you wanting to remove the clutch fluid line, simply take a close look at the fitting. You will see a plastic sleeve that is sandwiched between the two sections of the quick connect mechanism. If one pushes in slighly (toward the trans)on the portion of the clutch slave fitting where the plastic line enters, you can then take your fingernail and hold the plastic sleeve inward as you then wiggle the inner portion back outward. By holding that locking sleeve in, you hold the retainer mechanism and the line will release. Be carefull as some fluid will leak as the ine separates.
2.) For those with shifting issues, most are due to problems related to the clutch slave cylinder/master cylinder. Ford installs a rubber sleeve on the bleeder line on the factory bleeder screw so that the line has limited movement. If the sleeve (or rubber bumper) is not replaced with the slave cylinder, one can easily stress the line while re-tightening the bleeder causing a "kink" and ultimate line breakage at the plastic inner housing. Go through the expense, replace clutch assy and slave, then make sure the tech installs the rubber "movement limiter" on the bleeder line during the process. Follow correct clutch bleeding process and you will have years of proper service.
3.) Ford (Mazda) made a change in the 5-speed manual trans in 1998 to a slighly longer shift actuator lever portion of the stick assy and a slightly taller fulcrum mount to accommodate it. A 97 shifter and a 98 shifter laid side-by-side (as removed from the top of the trans by the three screws)will reveal this difference. If a 98 trans is swapped in a 96 or newer truck, one must use the 98 shifter. 95 and earlier must also switch the tailshafts to hook up the speedometer cable assy.
|CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER is bad if you have to rev it up to shift gears ! ! !|
|I have a 1995 Ford ranger with altomatic trans my overdrive lite comes on when i get to about fifty miles an hour.Also it shifts hard.I bought from mom because i knew it was taken car of.Could u tell me what i can do to fix the probiem I think the ford ranger is one of the best small trucks on the road if not the best. DAN BANKOWSKI|
|I installed a new clutch kit, master cyl, and slave cyl in my 94 4x4 but now can't get any presure to my clutch even after several days of bleeding, need help|
|dont know about later years but the 1991 thru 1995 m5od mazda tranny installed in the ranger and explorer have rubber plugs at the end of the shift guides. these plugs in the latter years of the trannys life dry up crack shrink and fall out, hence you have a leak. this leak for the most part cannot be seen when the vehicle is parked it only leaks when the vehicle is being driven also remember that the fluid ford uses in these tranny, s is just regular ATF so all of you who have problems with your shifter being stuck or experienced a complete failure at high speed more than likely your tranny is empty of fluid these plugs must be replaced.so do yourself a favor when you pull the tranny replace these plugs with "dorman" steel plugs part # 555108 before install put some silicon caulk around the outer rim of the plug tap into place and problem will be solved and yes i have done this to my 1993 ford explorer sport 4x4 5 speed|
|i have a 1953 flathead motor in the car, want to install a 5 speed tranny out of a 95 ford ranger, can this be done|
what parts would a person need
| 2000 Ranger, 3.0, manual 5 spd., 4WD XLT:|
Mountain driving, snowy on fairly level pavement at 45 mph- sudden seizing or internal dragging sensation.. "snapped" my parking brake release a couple of times (it wasn't set) and applied some throttle to see if working the clutch would allow the engine to speed up. The clutch had no effect on the drag... let up the pedal applied some power (bad idea) and a terrific metallic 'ka-bang! resulted... slowly slid to a halt, engine purring away and no power output. Could shift through all the gears with out clutching...w/ engine running. That was a heavy, solid, steel-snapping ka-bang- similar to breaking a u-joint on a fully loaded Freightliner noise!
Later, after un-welding and de-fusing a catastrophic failure of the R.R. parking brake seizure: I supported the vehicle w/ all four off the ground. All 4 axles freewheel smoothly and when I manually turn either propeller shaft, both sets of wheels spin nicely. With the key on, the 4WD switch no longer function but cliks. On or off, I can never spin front and move rear or vice-verse. Front and rear are independent... in gear or out of gear. Prior to this incident, clutch was never a problem... the pedal moves with same pressure and seems normal, but, as above, engine running- able to move through all the gears without depressing the clutch pedal at all.
Turn off engine, jump underneath and remove the rubber access boot: I can lever on the circumference of the pressure plate and spin the engine but not spin the output... in gear or out of gear. So... assuming the disc is pressed against the flywheel... I'm thinkin' either a broken output shaft (or gearbox internals are de-funked) or, splines broke out of the clutch disc or input shaft and it's remaining centered and pinched...just as easy as "pull and peek" BUT-
Q: Can the 4WD mechanism create a situation where rotation is NOT transfered to front or rear propellers via the electric and/or shift fork in the transfer case
Reason being... I skidded off the road with a R.R. wheel seized, in 4WD... but after the flying saucers left, the switch no longer functions. Toggling between any mode only results in 3 rapid cliks and then no action, and also, no indicator lights.
Before I pull the transmission and the transfer case, should I be checking the 4WD switch, the Control Mod. or shift problem at the 4WD shifting motor, transfer case, shift motor, etc.?
My gut is that I broke the shaft output of the 5-spd. or tore the splines off of the input shaft and left the disc pinched and centered, but since aliens were involved I'm hoping maybe "it's only electrical" ? Eh, no?
|I have a ford 2002 3.0 ranger, rep[laced the slave cyl. before. Little hard to shift into first sometimes. Then one day shifting into fifth gear i hard no power, only rpms. Then all gears would engage but no power to rear. Any ideas? Clutch operation normal and can shift into all gears but no power to rear wheels. Thanks for help|
|i have a 94 4x4 rainger five speed i was driving one day my tranny or though out berring was makeing noise when i push the clutch in it would disapear well one day the gear shift got stuck in fourth and would not move the next day i was playing around with it and it worked a gauin i thought its my tranny so i am looking for one|
|gearshift is loose has alot of play its 1989 ford ranger with manual trans gearshift mechanism is not available at ford dealer what part in the gearshift mechanism would cause this problem.|
|i have a 99 ford ranger and it will not move on it's own power. i was driving home and it started to rumble when i was shifting gears. i drove about 10 miles and came to a stop sign, i tried to go from that point and it would not go. after towing it home i checked the trans fluid and there was some metal particles on the drain plug when i removed it. is this bad or somewhat normal. i think it might be the clutch but i am not sure.|
|I was going down the road shifted thru 1, 2, got to third gave it a little gas and all the sudden, there was nothing no noise no load bang but you can shift thru all gears and nothing you can hear a little noise when clutch is out like something is spinning down there but no movement what so ever, thinking its cluth and not transmission any ideas on how to detect?|
|ATTENTION TO EVERYONE!!!!!!!! GO BUY A CHEVY, FORDS SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!|
|after reading "every" comment here, Im going to go ahead and say its my slave cylinder...91 ford explorer, 4x4, 5 speed. just bought a year ago, has 4x4 shifter next to my clutch, was shifting fine until a week or so ago, I cant get it to move in any gear, just RPM will rev up, BUT when I locked my hubs and engaged my 4x4, I put it in low range and the truck will drive, obviously not very fast, but I really really needed to get down the road and aint much of a walker. want to sell for parts, I cant afford a slave or master cylinder repair. I need a moving vehicle, doesnt everybody? email me if interested: firstname.lastname@example.org|
|Hey, Ive been reading and seen some similar problems. When i start my 94 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0L 5 speed, it shifts very nicely until it warms up. Then it becomes very hard to shift into gear especially first and about half the time shifting into reverse it will grind. Is this a sign of the clutch going bad?|
|Ok so the clutch started going out on our 93 ford ranger 6 cyl 2wd. We dropped the transmission and replaced the slave cylinder, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout/pilot bearing.|
We had it in first gear and on some ramps, and when we put it back together to bleed it, the clutch pedal was very hard to push and then something snapped. (That is when we replaced the master cylinder because the rod snapped off). So we tried bleeding it again and now there is no clutch at all, the truck will not start and will not move out of first gear.
|i have a 2000 ford ranger, dose any one now how to remove the gold round pump on the left side on the transmition.|
|Replaced clutch, pressure plate, and slave cyclinder, on 94 Ford Ranger manuel transmission 5 speed. Here's my problem, will change gears when vehicle is turned off, will not change gear when vehicle is running. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong?|
|I am having a problem with my transmission bieng stuck in gear. I recently replaced the transmission with a salvage one and in the process I damaged the rubber boot on the shifter. It went back together completely and functioned properly, so I ordered an M5OD shift repair kit and replaced the bushings and top plate with rubber boot. Here is where the problem occours, It will not shift, It seems to be stuck in gear and will not move out. I can start the truck and it will move forward like everything is fine, but I cannot shift it out of gear. So I tried using the old parts and still have the problem. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you, Gator.|
|I have a 1993 Ford ranger manual trasmission and im having issues shifting into first and second from a dead stop you almost have to punch it into first. I think it either needs the clutch adjusted or new synchonizers but im not sure if someone has any idea please message me.|
Hey boys, I have a 97 and an 87 ranger, both standard 5 speed tranny's. The tranny on the 97 blew and I was wondering if I should be able to take the one out of the 87 and throw it into the 97
|"Stiff gearchange and creeping in gear clutch in"|
My 1997 Ford Explorer V6 OHV manual transmission and clutch was terrible when I bought it about a year and a half ago. The guy I bought it off said a local Ford agency had tried to fix the stiff gearchange problem but were unsuccessful and told him it needed a spacer behind the centric slave cylinder as are fitted to race cars. He got sick of it so hense I bought the Explorer at a good price against my friends advice as I am into a punt. My first thought was master cylinder so I bought a new one, no difference, hard to bleed, bought a Haynes manual and it said let gravity do it's thing when bleeding with the front elevated, clutch worked better now-BUT, when the engine and trans got to operating temperature especially in hot weather the gearchange got harder and the Explorer (even with a heavy trailer)creeped forward with the clutch in, in gear like an automatic does.One would have to tun engine off, put in gear then restart.Solution to creeping and hard (at times impossible) to get into gear was caused by original pilot bearing being too small and expanding when heated up, fitted bigger O/D needle roller bearing(2mm either side)after machining flywheel to take it. The Flywheel had a large metal insert put into center to fit the tiny pilot needle roller whereas a decent sealed roller bearing could have been made and used in there, maybe Ford trying to save money during production? While at it I fitted also a complete new clutch set including slave cylinder(threw new original pilot away, too small, a joke). But then couldnt get the clutch pedal I had before with old clutch setup, bled it again as Haynes manual said but couldnt get enough travel to disengage clutch as fingers on clutch were further in now with the new clutch plate - solution was to remove the rubber stopper on the clutch pedal- instant improvement but still needed more clutch, so got out plasma cutter, chopped off some metal and tongue on pedal that used to hit the rubber stopper, fantastic improvement on the clutch movement, (seems the 5/8" master cylinder needed to be 3/4" for the original pedal setup to work properly)now my Explorer is really good to drive and changes gear like a dream at all times, no more creeping or stiff gearchange. So there you have it, just a bad engineering problem created by Fords engineers, thought I should put this remedy on the Explorer Forum as this remedy worked for me as it was really frustrating. Now the gearchange and clutch problem is now resolved, my Explorer is now a great vechile and a pleasure to drive. Gear change is easy and smooth like a new car.
|"removing top bell housing bolts"|
ok to the guy trying to get to the two top bell housing bolts, what i did is take the crossmember and driveshaft loose and let the transmission sag down enough to were u can see the bolts from underneath the truck then u can easily remove them with a couple extensions and a wratchet!! :)
|"to james, bleeding the clutch cylinder"|
remove the pressure hose and slave cylinder for bench bleeding. get a post or something sturdy that you can stretch the hose out on vertically. next you wanna fill the line with dot 3 brake fluid. when line is filled pump slave cylinder by hand and bubbles will start to bleed out from the top. also u can tap the line with a screwdriver to hlep get bubbles to rise and continue pumping cylinder by hand til it gets hard to pump and bubbles no longer persist. next step is to reinstall ur clutch line and slave cylinder to your clutch pedal and transmiissoin. now u wanna do a process refered to ass gravity bleeding and this is easier with two people. first open ur resevoir and fill to rim and loosen bleed screw underneath on your clutch or throwout bearing and let fluids flow through to ensure no air pockets. make sure someone is steadily pouring dot 3 fluid into the resevoir at all time to prevent it from running low and causing new bubbles. after u have ran approximately two resevoirs of fluid through you can tighten screw back u and you should be good to go :)
|"this is for mike with 2002 ranger with 5 speed"|
hey mike! your clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder could very well be your problem. i had the same problem and i installed new slave cylinder, release bearing or(throwout bearing), and clutch master cylinder and now mine switches and goes into gear like a dream. :)
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This post has a total of 122 replies. The most recent 25 were shown above, you can view the complete archive here: Manual Transmission archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.
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