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This forum post has messages dated from 04/08/05 through 02/10/13, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
|I got the same problem as most of who got Nissans with idle problem. MY 93 NISSAN ALTIMA IS EMITTING BLACK SMOKE FROM THE MUFFLER, THIS IS USUALLY PRECEDED BY THE CAR TURNING OFF. THE CAR TURNS ON RIGHT AWAY BUT SPUTTERS A BIT. OTHER SYMPTOMS INCLUDE EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION, CAR TURNS OFF WHILE IN IDLE AT A STOP LIGHT, SPARKPLUGS ARE EXTREMELY CARBONATED. IVE REPLACED THE FUEL FILTER, OXYGEN CENSOR, GAS REGULATOR, AND SPARK PLUGS. HELP, NO DIFFERENCE. |
|I bought this 1995 nissan pickup with a 4cyl automatic. Mileage unknown odometer doesnt work. It ran fine until recently I was driving and it died on me the engine would turn over but no spark from the coil. I hit the coil with a rubber mallet and it started and ran fine for a day. I bought a coil and after going about six blocks it died and wouldnt start again! Same as before, no spark coming from the coil. what would cause no spark from the coil to the distributor?? I need help ASAP! Any info would be appreciated|
|I have 1997 Nissan se just changed the heads and now when you trun key on pours gas in motor any ideas. why this is happening|
|I have a 98 nissan frontier, 4 cyl manual transm. the truck star and runs good but after 10 miutes the idle is rough and suddenly die.I checked fuel pressure, clean throttle, spark plug, wires, IAC is working TPS, etc but the problem is still doing it.when i drive the truck runs but it feels like dies and runs againg but you can feel that but hardly felt and the engine restarts.If you have suggestion i will appreciate reply me ASAP. Thanks. |
| have a 93 nissan altima se i Disconnected the throttle body sensor to clean the throttle. before i did that i disconnected the battery i reconnect everything back the way it should be and when i started my car it wants to turn off. why is that need help!...|
|I have a 95 nissan pickup xe. I had a alternator problem; so, I change out battery and alternator with new parts. Now, the battery & alternator dast light stay on when truck is in use. Battery and alternator is putting out proper voltage. Having trouble solving this problem. Help, Please.|
|Nissan hardbody 2.4 starts fine when cold warms up shut it off try to start and coughs when turning over like it's out of time then eventually starts and runsfine any ideas |
|97 nissan D21 pickup 2.4L 4cyl Idles good when given gass it dies??Have changed a lot still has the same problem?|
|i have a 91 nissan pick with a 2.4 engine i replace the seals and put it all back together i set the timing at t.d.c but for soem reason im not getting the injectors to work they worked before i took it apart but now it will run if i put gas in the throtle body but it wont stay running please help |
|I have a 95 nissan pathfinder it runs great like a sewing machine but after about 10-15 cranks it quits n has no fire cumming through the coil.. u can then take the battery out n let it sit for a day or so n back to the same thing.... Can anyone help me i have replaced the altanator, distrebuter cap, rotery button, spark plugs n wires, coil and the ignition switch...............|
|I have also replaced the ecm computer under the seat...n all relays|
|some idiot decided to steal my 97 Nissan XE pickup. I havebeen getting the parts to replace what they took off of it and im running into a problem with the distributor cap and the spark plug wires. Can anyone tell me what wires go on which spark plugs as the new cap that i got from the dealer did not come with the information on it and the dealer didnt have that information in their computer. PLEASE HELP!!!!|
|I'm buildin a dirt track car and I put a truck motor and wiringharness in a 240sx and I need to know what wires to power up the ecm and what grounds I need |
|my nissan double cab [US 720]1981 is fitted with sd22 deisel engine and has an inline injector pump . I wish to know why this pump gives lot of rattling noise|
|I have a 96 it would run then sputter then eventually die changed distributer wires plugs fuel pump and filter timing chain and some sensors and still ran like crap . All you have to do is change your oxygen sensor on the manifold. About 175$ truck runs great now. Harold........|
|I have a 89 hardbody bought it new back in feb 89 the darn thing has the some idle problem with black smoke form the tail pipe, believe it or not that is my only problem since i owned the truck i am going on 300, 000 miles thanks for the info i will clean the mass air flow sensor and see if it makes a difference|
|"Coast, bypass valve, "|
Check and see if the coast valve is sticking open, I had an L20 in a 720 pickup, and some mechanic somewhere had rebuilt the carburetor, and installed the coast valve BACKWARDS, so it would start and run at 1200 rpm, minimum, if it went below that it just stalled. Its possible on your rig that one of the control valves, vacuum lines, is not working properly. In my situation, once I found the problem, (just before I was getting ready to burn the whole truck!), it ran perfect for many years, until the frame gave out, and even years after, in the junkyard, we could put in a battery, and the engine would just fire right up. The coast valve introduces filtered air directly into the manifold during a high vacuum situation, such as coasting down a hill, and your foot is off or almost off the accelerator. It is usually controlled by a BYPASS VALVE. If you bought it used, could be a vacuum line is not in proper location. Also, on the manifold, there should be a vacuum control valve that actuates based on engine temperature, I have one of these on my Z24, and I found it to be faulty, it was stuck open, which caused the engine to run very poorly. Even worse after warmup, you will hear a hissing sound, you can use a hose to your ear, when the engine is running, and chase vacuum leaks. Once I blocked the bad valve on the manifold, the hissing went away, and the engine runs excellent. I also changed all the vacuum lines, many people forget about vacuum lines, the trick is to change one at a time, and work with the correct vacuum line diagram for your vehicle, doing it this way, you can replace each line, and check its connection as you go. In my experience with cars, I've owned about 140 of them, vacuum lines are always forgotten about, and are a major cause of poor engine performance. I hope this will help you out with your problem. Datsun Al,
I currently own a 1984, and a 1982, Datsun 720 4WD, king cab, long bed, both of them, and they just run, but the 84 has some type of engine clatter on startup, if you can help me with that I sure would appreciate it.
Can't post the link, but someone says he solved the problem. It was a fractured solder joint in the fuel relay hidden behind the glove compartment
|"Possible vapor lock, or emission device failure, ECU"|
1) swap out the ECU, (computer)or brain, for engine management.
If truck behaves the same, then your ECU is good, if not then your ECU
may have heat related failure, an engines computer can fail over time.
I've seen many of these being swapped out to cure run issues.
For example, we purchased an early 90s Accura at an auction, after driving
it for 20 to 30 minutes, it would stop, and not run. My partner who is an
electronics wizz, looked into the computer, and related wiring, and found
that we had an intermittent ground fault, sometimes the ground to chassis was good, and other times is would fail. So we added a ground from the chassis of the computer module, to chassis of the car, and it ran fine from that point forward. Sometimes an ECU will get hot, and then it will fail. So they can have a "service life".
2) Vapor lock, can be amplified by moisture in your fuel, have you run some
Heet, or water remover in your fuel? I had a 2001 Ford Escape, and on a trip had stopped for fuel, about 20 minutes later it started to spit and sputter, and I had to pull off the road, because it had no power. Lucky for me, I had two bottles of HEET, only one us usually needed for 20 gals of fuel, but i was down on the side of the road, in the middle of nowhere, in the cold season, so i gave it 2 bottles of HEET, and in about 5 minutes or so, we were off and running, and the car ran just fine, for the remainder of the trip. An ECU cannot discriminate between fuel and water, so its important to know your fuel is clean, this has happened to me at least three times in my 36 years of driving.
3) On the engine, there are some temperature related devices that switch other devices, change ONE at a time, see if it is one of those.
4) EGR, could your EGR valve be sticking open after it heats up? I disconnected the EGR system controls, so i know my valve is closed.
There are air bypass valves on Nissan intake systems, are the valves in good condition?
5) The best way sometimes is to eliminate all gadgets, and emission devices, and start with a basic engine, like the old days, and then re-connect, or re-activate each control, emission device, until you duplicate the problem, then you'll have it, or at least part of the problem.
6) Vacuum gauge, an old timer once taught me how to evaluate a good engine with a Vacuum gauge, you can really see just how "healthy" an engine is with this tool, for example, if you T-in a vacuum line into your intake manifold vacuum, and then run that to a vacuum gauge and locate the gauge in your cab, or in a place where you can see it. Watch it to see how it reacts when your engine runs good, and see how it does when it begins to fail.
I hope this may help you out, Good luck!
|"1995 nissan pickup"|
My 1995 nissan pickup starts loosing power and shuts off like its out of gas. It restarts right away and I can drive for about 500 yards and it dies again. I have replaced the fuel filter but that didn't cure it. any suggestions?
Check your fuel Sock in tank
and fuel filter or if this has a manual fuel pump
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