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Clutch damperAbout a month ago I was driving my 1997 xe 2w pickup, and the clutch went out. didn't disengage at all. Managed to limp home by pushing and popping into gear.
I replaced the master and slave cylinders, but haven't replaced the damper. Bled the system, the pedal came up but still didn't completely disengage the clutch. Pumping the pedal brings up some pressure, but still not enough.
What does the clutch damper do??? Is it a dealer only part??
This post has a total of 6 replies. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.
This forum post has messages dated from 08/19/08 through 01/04/11, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
|Dealer part (about$135.00 and have to order) after market doesn't even list.|
Sorry but I got the same problem and am here to learn "su
|I actually have the same problem with my 1990 300zx and replaced the clutch, slave and master before learning it was the damper which connects my stainless steel line from the master cylinder to the rubber line off the slave cylinder. All you have to do is elimatine the damper all together and connect the 2 lines. It was only put there(stupidly) to reduce vibrations on the clutch pedal. Good luck.|
|my clutch started letting up off the floor, |
so i tried to bleed it. no clutch now. i cant
do anything but get mad.
can i bypass the damper?or dose it have to be
used? please help i need my truck.
|I am having a similar problem with my 1985 300zx. I'll bleed the slave then the clutch damper and I'll have good pedal for a day or two. Then it will start to have quite a bit of play before it doesn't disengage and my pedal is to the floor. While looking to bypass the clutch damper, I've pulled up a Nissan truck site that does the same as what I'm doing. Of course, your damper is by the firewall by the exhaust; mine is on the frame by the speedometer coming off the transmission.|
What you'll do is eliminate the clutch damper and it will give you a pedal the is more firm, crisp, and a more overall positive clutch feel. If you were having gear grind (upshifting, going in reverse, and etc) it will eliminate the problem because you will have more pressure in the system for a more complete disengaging for the clutch. And it will simply your clutch system with having just a master and a slave (LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!!) and it will be 10x easier to bleed the system.
I hope this helps because I'm out of my daily driven car until I can order the right brake hose to bypass that pain in the ass all together.
|Sorry for the repost but I didn't address a few things that I should have. Basically a clutch damper is just as the name implies, it dampens the clutch. This is to make the car somehow easier to drive and most manual Nissan's come from the factory with these on there. What it does, is keeps quite a bit of fluid in the whole system so the clutch will feel "soft". These are great if you are just learning to drive a manual, but a pain in the ass if you good enough to rev-match gears with no clutch. This is also a personal taste to how people like their clutch, I like mine crisp, firm, and can feel exactly what's going on. |
A clutch damper is not a necessity with a manual setup. I personally feel that a clutch system should just have a master and slave cylinder. That is it. Nothing more or less, just the basic necessities. And the best part is it costs nothing, or under 10 dollars to completely bypass the thing and have all of you clutch problems disappear.
My car is a 1985 Nissan 300ZX Turbo. I've had the car for two years now and have always had a problem with the clutch system. It is a pain to bleed when something goes out because the damper holds so much liquid (then air after you crack a line). I've replaced the slave, master, clutch, pressure plate, and still had grinding when upshifting or going into reverse. Even when I've perfectly rev-matched when shifting, the system was just too weak.
Now I'm going to completely eliminate all my problems when the brake line I ordered comes in so I can attach it straight from the hardline to the slave. Once again I'm sorry for the double post. And if you need to know what to do, type in google what car you have and after it "clutch damper removal". Good luck.
Isaiah J Roberts
|Ok, I have an '86 Nissan D21, 2 Wheel drive, 4 cylinder. My clutch went slack; no resistance when I put in the pedal. I have replaced the master AND slave cylinder, and have made sure there are no leaks in the system. Now, when I attempt to bleed the line, a vacuum seems to be created. I have tried various methods of bleeding, but none seem to work. I talked to my girlfriends father, a man who lives and breathes cars, he mentioned that I needed to bench bleed my new master cylinder. I followed his description of the process: disconnected the clutch line from the master, held my finger over the master's output, pushed in the clutch, let it out, repeated. It worked a half my reservoir through, so I figured it was done. Now, when I put everything back together, same issue. Can't bleed it, so can't drive it. |
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