door locks, windows, power mirror no work - Jeep-Grand Cherokee
door locks, windows, power mirror no work96 grand cherokee front and rear passenger side doors are electrically dead. nothing works: power locks, mirror, and windows.
This post has a total of 33 replies. The most recent 25 are shown below, you can view the complete archive here: door locks, windows, power mirror no work archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.
This forum post has messages dated from 05/22/09 through 04/11/13, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
|2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Driver side door lock, electric windows, remote mirrors were inoperable. Interior lights stayed on. Reviewed the comments in this forum. Disconnected the battery, sliced open the black boot on the driver's side door wiring harness and found the broken black wire. Stripped each end of the wire back and reconnected the broken using wire connectors, male and female. Reconnected the battery cable. Taped connectors and black boot with electrical tape. Everything is now working. Thanks to everyone who provided input on this problem.|
|Found the same problem on daughter's 2004 GC. It appears a poor selection of an improper conductor is the reason for the black wire breaking. The conductor should have been of fine strand wire, capable of excessive flexing, instead of the larger stranded conductor. |
I spliced in a fine strand piece on either side of the main flex area.
Thanks for the info. It really saved a lot of trouble shooting time .
|Hi, newbie here - just bought a 2005 Jeep Cherokee 2.4 Sport and discovered a problem with the wing mirrors!|
Can amend the angle of the mirror glass on driver or passenger side no problem, however only the passenger side folds in when pressing the switch which seems strange when there is obviously power getting to the driver's mirror???? Advice most appreciated, thanks.
|i have same problem just checked mine and orange and black are cut |
|I'm in Jeep Grand Cherokee hell. I first observed the "no power" to doors windows phenomenon, only to have the dreaded window regulator failure occur first. After reading the ingenious folks on the jeep forums, I tried to fix my current regulator. Too hard for me to fix the cabling, but I don't feel bad since it's a "no fix" part in the service manual. Felt great about finding a $49 shipped new replacement at Parts Geeks online, only to spend 4 hrs installing today - bolt pattern didn't match (because they sent the '01 version for my '98) then after I drilled door panel to fit, THEN, the power failure. YEP!!! The black wire in the boot was broken and another was sliced. After I repaired that, reassembled, restored power...the window operated opposite the switch - UGH! 3 times, then stopped again. but for the sake of this reply - yes, look at those wires. I was surprised they could be broken inside that protective boot, which by the way - is harder to remove than omitted here.|
Anyone want a '04 JGC Lemon?
|I spliced my wires yesterday without even removing the boot .It took less then an hour grabbed the body side wires with small pair of vise gripps never removed boot or un plugged harness. Steve|
|My daughter has an 04 Jeep GC and her power windows and door locks quit working. I disconnected the harness and found the orange wire cut and the black wire partially cut. I spliced a new 14 guage wire in, reconnected the battery and all works. Thanks Dave Clute you were right on time!!|
|thank you so much for your help found and fixed the problems with the ground wire on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee!!! Can not say how thankful I am!!!!|
|Thank you for the "black wire" tip. Just fixed mine. It's incredible that Jeep would use such an inflexible cable in a position where it would be flexed everytime the door was opened!|
|Thanks for this post! I had this problem about a year ago and Jeep fixed under warranty, now out of warranty failed again, i pulled the bot and sure enough Jeep's fix failed again!|
|I brought my 2004 Jeep GC to the dealer because the sideview mirror wasn't working at all. When i picked up the jeep the mirror was able to move up and to the right, but not left or down. They tell me I need a new mirror assembly and it isn't covered under warranty. Any thoughts? |
Steff in VA
|I was reading here that quite a few people are having problems with their jeep's power window controls and some with their interior lighting staying on. This is my most recent problem. 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Edition 4.7L V8. |
It started when I bought the jeep used..for the last 2 years I've had problems with the tail lights - mostly on the left side. I never know which part of the light is gonna work. Taken it to mechanics and they have "fixed" it twice. Still not working. I noticed that the lighting in my dashboard only on the left side has been getting more and more dim and now I can barely tell how much gas I have in my tank at night unless I use the backlight from my cell phone or if the gas icon is lit up orange to remind me that I need gas.
A week ago my interior lights decided to stay on permanently. They would eventually go off after I locked the door, but could have taken anywhere from 15 minutes to hours for them to go off. Shortly there after, all of my windows and side view mirrors stopped working from the control panel on the driver's side. There is no functionality on any of the other door except for the automatic locking mechanism on the passenger side door still works and is even lit up green. NOTHING works in the main driver control panel. We have removed the plastic panel from the door and will attempt to check out the black and the orange wires that I keep hearing about in this forum.
If anybody can provide feedback on the dimming dashboard light and the tail light it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!!
|Everything in this thread sounds like the problems i'm having with my 2000 Jeep sport..but i'm not finding any broken wires or this Black and Orange wire y'all are talking about. Help!|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Louisville, Ky
99 Jeep grand cherokee Windows/door locks not working
Windows/door locks/driver mirror suddenly stopped working one morning on my way to work and after work they began working again.
They stopped working the next day and never sense. i figured it had to be a wire because why would it just start working again. dosen't sound like a fuse to work and not work.
checked driverside door black rubber boot. Found black wire had been rigged with an extention with lots of electrical tape.
Today im gonna try and take everyones advice from this site and try to soder a piece of wire to repair the black wire so i have extra space, then if that dose not do it i will try to replace #12 fuse (50).
i'll post again after im done with results.
RESULTS = NO! black wire repaired....nothing. Fuse #12 (50) replaced....nothing. I'm at a loss now.
Also, i notice before i started the repairs that the Temperature read out on the overhead console dosen't read temperature, but dose read direction. N, E, S, W...weird.
FIXED IT ALL!I forgot to plug back together the door to body connect after repairing the black wire. DUH! Also, it didn't work right away. it fixed the door locks and mirror only, so i took the negative cable off battery and took new #12 (50) that i had just replace out and put old fuse back. (cause it still looked new) then put the negative back on battery and now everything works again.
noticing that my negative battery is loose. wonder if that had a little to do with all of this. Gonna go get that fixed now so this all dosen't happen again. I would do it myself, but it has to many wires attached.
Hope my post helps
|"2004 jeep cherokee, door locks do not work"|
My 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Larado, Started with the inside door lock working intermitently, then it did not work at all. Then it progessed to not being able to open the windows. Then when you turned on the lights and had adjusted the panel so you could see the speedometer the dome lights came on and could not be shut off without shutting off the instrument panel lights.
I did as what you all suggested and pulled the boot loose on the drivers side door and the body. Sure enough the black wire was broken. I touched the two ends and things started working. I soldered in a short section of wire. Every thing worked and put it back together and we are in business.
Thanks all for posting. Saved me $$$$$
|"OBDII code and wiring issues"|
Could a OBDII code P0601 be caused by this problem? We have the same exact issues in our 2004 Jeep Cherokee. After reading this tonight, my husband will be working on fixing the wires tomorrow!! We just tried to get inspected but failed because of the P0601 error=-( I read on another forum that a wiring problem could throw out a false code. I am hoping that is the case and wondering if anyone else got the code. If its not a false code, we are possibly in for big bucks because every other site says its due to a bad part that costs almost 1k to fix.
|"It's the black wire!"|
Can not thank everyone who posted enough. Started with weird sound when doors were locked, progressed to keyless remote not working, interior lights going crazy and finally dead windows. Took covering off wires in door jam (drivers side)and sure enough, black wire snapped. Put back together and life is good again.
|"2004 Grand cherokee Electrical nightmare!"|
I am new to this site but have to say it has been very informative...
I just bought a 2004 Grand Cherokee, the previous owner spent close to $1000.00 repairing this issue....and sure enough..... I am getting the same problem 6 weeks later......Interior lights staying on and draining the battery.... no door lock working.... no mirrors...etc.
I shall open up the boot on the driver's door tomorrow and hope to find the black wire broken...
I am at a loss why, is this not a recall from Jeep....?? Some people have even had vehicle stalling on the road in traffic....! This is a safety issue and Jeep should be correcting this matter at their cost as an AD....!
Thank you for shring the information....:)
|"pwr windows and locks, and horn"|
My horn, pwr windows, and pwr locks would not work when door was open but worked when door was closed. Found a broken wire in the harness boot in between driver door when opened.. its a black rubber boot when you open the door inside the door jam. It was an orange wire with blue stripe hanging on by one strand. spliced and reconnected. everything works perfect now! hope this helps whoever has this problem
|"I know how to fix this problem from every angle that could be wrong."|
"The black wire"....that awful black wire.
It started for me where all windows/locks/mirrors inoperative...i came here (about a year ago) and learned that the black wire or orange/white B+ power wire (can also be tan/blue on B+ wire). Mine was orange/white in the door jamb, and tan/blue inside door panel, making me beleive someone was already here...
Someone had already been there, the previous owner was charged around $300 for a new "Driver door module" (even though Chrysler prices the DDM over $300 for an 04 Grand Cherokee). What the dealership REALLY did, was found the biggest idiot they had working there, who went in with a soldering gun and destroyed the whole harness, and it looks like someone went behind him and overhauled most of the sloppiness. PCI bus (YL/VT), B+ (OR/wT), and ground (black, but green after they got done with it, were damaged by burns...where they actually spliced the wires were horrible cold solder joints that were jagged, poked thru the crappy electrical tape job, and stabbed other wires.
So the first step is determining whether or not you have a broken power (OR/WT or TN/BL) or ground (black) wire. And also kinda eyeball inside the rubber boot to see if some dick at a dealership overcharged you or a previous owner to mess things up more.
This problem starts with a broken ground or power wire almost always, because they're thick, and not enough slack on them for regular flex. I've heard YL/VT (PCI bus) wire is also prone to breaking because of how THIN it is. This post is long enough...yall DONT want me to get into PCI bus diagnostics...hopefully that wire is fine.
So to figure it out...
1)remove negative battery cable
2)Peel back the rubber boot on the door side of driver door (or passenger door if it only affects that side). Dont pull it off on the body side...yet..
3)inspect the wires...hopefully, you'll just see a broken/distorted wire, and it'll be easy fix from there
4)if wires appear fine, get a 12v circuit tester (test light) and squeeze the 2yellowish/white plastic tabs on the top/bottom of wiring harness, and pull it off towards the body...now pull out the actual connector...it should have a red tab in the middle...on one end of the red tab, you can take a finger nail, and pull it upwards (the other end, you cant get a fingernail on, you'll see when you get there)...dont remove the red tab alll the way, it just needs to be pulled up until it clicks...then you can disconnect the 2 harness connectors...
5) on the door side connector, get a test light, 12v circuit tester, multimeter, whatever you got...reconnect battery, key doesnt need to be on here use, and verify that 12-13 volts exist when you probe the power terminal (OR/WT or TN/BL). Easy way, get a regular circuit tester, hook it up to battery neg terminal, and it'll light up on the power wire if its good. hook the clamp on tester to battery postive terminal, and it will light up if the ground is good.
I have a "logic probe" $30 from napa, that i can connect 2 clamps to battery + and - and it'll light up green for ground, red for power when i touch it to a wire or terminal...
6) if you find that the ground aint right, or the power aint right, you can use a multimeter or ohmeter to find the break in the wire...email me if you'd like to know how to remove the wire and metal terminal out of its connector and redo the wire entirely instead of finding the break...or if you'd like to know how to use a multimeter...i didnt know how when this problem began, and this jeep taught me how to work a multimeter up and down over the last year...
solder the break back together...be wary of butt connectors here, its 12g wire and you'll need the big yellow ones that dont fit well in the rubber boot, and come apart (and that can cause some big issues ive found). Soldering is by far the best method for this...a GOOD solder joint...or remove terminal from connector, go to junk yard, and find a different wire of same gauge, THEN use a butt connector in the passenger area, but NOT in the rubber boot in the jamb!
If its the ground wire, just crimp a ring terminal on it, and drill it to the body somewhere on the body side of the rubber boot (not door side). This will work perfect, and you wont need to worry about that wiring breaking again. Dont do this w/ power wire.
This is what i did at first. Butt connector failed several times...eventually i redid most of the driver door harness...and my driver side windows worked...but not passenger.
Turns out i shorted out the passenger door module.
On these jeeps, the pass door module (PDM) controls windows on passenger side, as well as ALL locks except driver lock. the DDM controls its windows, and only its lock. The PDM also receives key fob input, so the only way i can get my key fobs to work is by going to Chrysler and getting them to reprogram it for a lot of $, and i am NEVER going to that horrible place again, screw the key fobs!
I thought i fixed everything, and all the wiring leading up to the door module behind the door trim and 12v power and good ground on every door. I redid several wires that just looked questionable...that was a waste of time.
You can take a highbeam headlight (i used a Bad Boy horn), and hook jumper wires from the power wire on the connector inside the door to the horn +, and another jumper from ground wire connector to horn -. My horn honked loud and proud. So i verified the wires were not the issue on this side.
If you can make THAT happen, you probably have a bad door module. ebay/junkyard...dont buy it from chrysler, hell, call me, ill got pick one out of a junkyard right now and do $50/free shipping instead of $300 from chrysler.
You can also hook jump leads from the power terminal of module connector, to either window down or up (doesnt matter), and a jump from the ground to whatever window terminal you didnt use w/ power. if the window motor operates, reverse the leads so the ground is now on whatever window you used power on and vise versa.
If window goes in both directions, BAD module.
Email me w/ questions....ive been studying this for a long time, its hard to diagnose w/out a chrysler DRBIII scan tool, but i repaired a very damaged harness system, hit every bump in the road that could happen, and it works great now, and i dont think ill EVER have these issues again after all ive learned here.
|"Door locks, windows, power mirror don't work AND more"|
This nut has taken weeks to crack and the final piece of the puzzle was your right here on this site.
My issue was that a few weeks ago my windows were acting erratic and finally they stopped working. The right rear was stuck all the way down and the left front was half way. The sunroof worked, but that's about it.
Every single google search fix suggested replacing BCMs, PCMs, door switch panel, PCI's, etc. I even saw a great YouTube vid on how to replace the BCM behind the fuse box. (Thank God I didn't do it!) After some digging, it turned out to be a severed ground wire (black) inside the boot between the body and the door. (Or the large orange wire with pink tracer too.) Apparently this is quite common. REPAIRED. Now the electric door lock works and so does the mirror control, but still no power to the windows or door light. Every plug was reseated.
Add the EVIC which is going nuts too now. It isn't registering temp, econ, mileage, etc. The interior lights are now also malfunctioning, stay on and have to be turned off manually. The headlights only work manually, not in auto. All other exterior lights work fine. I do the EVIC test (C/T & Reset with ignition turned on) and get a J1850. Most sites say it's a done deal, dealer fix and/or you have to replace something expensive - NOT necessarily!
I look at the door fuses in the engine compartment, check continuity and even rearrange them. This didn't work either. So I check fuses 27 & 28. 27 was blown and replaced (just coincidental I think). No change. Windows still don't work.
Thanks to this thread and a thread from another site, it fit all together not completely the cure. The final piece to the puzzle was to pull fuse #7, #22 AND #28 together! I left them out for a while and replaced them.
After weeks of frustration, the problem was finally fixed. I'm only a DYI mechanic, but fly an airplane that's a robot (over 300 computers). Sometimes a computer needs a gentle reset/kick (several breakers in a special order or in unison) which is my guess here or a complete power down (airplane reboot/ car battery disconnect). I think when the power came back to the door, it spiked the BCM and knocked it out. Simply pulling #7, #22, #28, the 50A fuses in the engine compartment, disconnecting the battery individually, did not work. Maybe it was coincidence, but #7, #22 & #28 TOGETHER did the trick. EVIC back to life and EVERYTHING works! ...didn't have to replace the BCM, EVIC or PCM. It was a $0 fix.
Thanks for everyone that takes the time to post. Good luck!
|[message deleted by user]|
|"2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Black Wire Bent in Harness Hose"|
Car was running good one day, next morning I got in to start it & nothing worked or would come on. Bought 8 year battery last year. Been reading post about Black Wire, had my husband look at the harness between the left drivers door & pulled the black rubber hose off & the black wire was bent (which means the copper coils inside the were broken off. However there was no evidence that the wire was cut, but the wire was bent & not getting enough circuit to cause the car to work. He disconnected the battery, cut the black wire in half & sliced the wire & input soldering past on wires & soldered them back together, wrapped in electrical tape. Put black harness hose back on the drivers side door and connected the battery, started the Jeep & she's working, everything. We were quoted $400 for Electrical problems, Saved alot of money.. Chrysler should have never made put the conductor wires in the doors, they are not flexible & break, no matter how old the suv's are there should be a recall. I heard this is common in 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee's spent $2000 in repairs. This is my 3rd Jeep in the last 12 years, I think this will be the last one, I will be going Toyota, Honda or Mazda. I am glad the problem is fixed she must go enough!!!
|"Orange Wire, Black Wire, BEEP!"|
I appreciate all the posts regarding the broken wires in the boot! I still have a problem though.
When my problems first started, my door lock wouldn't engage except with the key fob, but all other functions worked, including unlocking. Then, windows stopped working, and the interior light went on permanently. I took it to the dealership after taking the trim panel off and checking for corrosion on the module to have them evaluate possible causes ($98). They confirmed it was probably a bad module. I ordered one through JustforJeeps.com ($233.10+shipping).
After getting it home, I saw the posts on this forum, and thought I might be able to fix the broken wire problem and return the module. My black wire wasn't broken, but the outer plastic was cracked on the black, red/white, and blue wires. I just tightly taped these, and moved on to the orange wire, which was broken. I touched the broken ends together, and the (old) drivers door module got power. I then went ahead and soldered in a small section on the orange wire, taped it up, and tested power on the module again. Success...ish.
I then tried all functions again, realizing everything worked EXCEPT locking the doors, even with the new module... so I took it off, and put it back in the bag for return. I proceeded to tape the whole bundle of wires together inside the boot, and stuffed it all back together, pushing slack into the body before trying to reattach the boot to the door. Accepting partial success, I figured I might be going back to the dealership again. Here's the kicker...
With the key in the on position, I plugged the old module in, and the horn started honking, and lights were a-flashing. Removing the module and removing the key did nothing. I removed the negative lead from the battery to shut it up. I can't plug the module back in now with power to the battery without the alarm going off. Any recommendations before I throw in the towel?
|"How to fix your lock situation"|
the horn is going off because you plugged in the module w/ the battery still connected, and the key on (either of the factors may have damaged other modules, or the driver door mod itself, NEVER EVER do anything electrical work on a car w/ the battery connected, unless your doing tests and are aware of what can happen.
try putting the module back in while battery is disconnected (why you did it w/ key in on position is completely beyond me). this should solve it, and you probably didnt need a new one. If it turns out you do need a new one, go get one from a junkyard, ive fixed 3 of them at my shop in 2013 alone...1999-2004 grand cherokees all have same DDMs and PDMs (although passenger side requires reprogramming by Chrysler DRBIII scan tool in order for key fobs to work).
Speaking of Chrysler, while you were at the dealership did anyone try and use the DRBIII? I figure if they charge you 98 bucks, they could at least take advantage of being the ONLY place that has the $10, 000 DRB3 which can take over the body control module and command locks to lock or unlock. No other scanner is capable of this on your Jeep. The fact that they were looking for corrosion on the pins of the DDM makes me think you were at somewhere other than a Chrysler dealership though. At the Chrysler dealership where i live, you can tell a freakin lubetech your windows arent working right on a WJ, and he'll before pulling the door jamb boot off before they even give you a quote.
So you got robbed, sorry. Next time ask them to use DRB3, as it could've basically explained EVERYTHING you needed to know about this problem. Also next time, tell them their dumb, and you want this done for free (good luck hehe).
email me at [deleted]@gmail.com if you have any questions, i know the wiring diagram for these doors like i know my social security number.
Fortunately, the yellow/purple wire (real thin, known as PCI bus, in charge of serial data communication between modules, particularly communication with the PDM) in that harness seems to work because it turned the horn on when you plugged it in.
Basically, that wire told the PDM (pass side controls alarm/key fobs)"hey, we were neither locked or unlocked over here, guessing the door is missing, then all the sudden the door came back, and i freaked out and turned on the alarm, i think someone is breaking in!!?!" ...in laymans terms...
As you turn the key to "On", the PCM, powertrain control module or main computer, does a check. It basically pulses some voltage thru that yellow/purple PCI bus wire (all modules have this color PCI bus), and upon seeing that the module is healthy and alive, it then gives the BODY control module (BCM), the ability to start letting you do things like lock doors from that module on your left arm. Think about this...the PCM saw nothing there on startup, defaulted to the assumption that there is no switch there, and it wont process any data regarding DDM, and all the sudden its plugged in, and PCM never recognized it from its initial check...it sees this as a major problem, and PDM also recognizes this problem.
The orange wire you fixed is the main 12V hot wire. Make sure you soldered it well.
It would be wise to take the black wire and crimp a ring terminal on the end of it (cut it off near fuseblock, disregard rest of black wire leading up towards steering column), and drill a selftapping screw in the ring terminal, and send that black wire to ground, where it belongs. Make sure it has lots of slack, and do this on passenger side too...as long as orange wire is healthy, this wiring issue will never give you any problems after that since the black is BY FAR the most likely to give out, and often will break once, then break in another spot later...thank the geniuses at Chrysler for that. If this happened to a Honda, they'd probably recall the wiring harness, but the jerks at Daimler-Chrysler need to see wheels falling off/people dying before they recall ANYTHING.
If you do all this, and horn is still honking, pull out the pink (i think? maybe red) fuse under the hood for the passenger door module, and that may reset it when u put it back in. its a 40 or 50 amp square fuse. Also check the DDM fuse while you're in there, make sure it looks healthy, they both like to blow during these procedures.
Dont throw in the towel, you'll be alright. You'll figure it out...DONT go back to that dealership, they're going to rob you blind, and they obviously either dont know or dont care how to solve this problem. Good luck, email me w/ any questions, i can tell ya how to make a new wiring harness for virtually free after visit to junkyard, and about an hour and a half worth of work at the connector in door jamb, and i can also tell you how to check and make sure you data communications regarding the modules or if theres any module failures w/out using the DRB3...youll need a decent multimeter for that, high impedence at least 10million ohm meter, w/ a DC voltage scale (MIN/MAX function would also be ideal here). DO NOT go putting a test light on that purple/yellow PCI bus wire, or it'll break your heart.
Good luck, email is [deleted]@gmail.com
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This post has a total of 33 replies. The most recent 25 were shown above, you can view the complete archive here: door locks, windows, power mirror no work archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.
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