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Ford-Ranger -
front wheel hum

Tom (72.79.121.122) - Fri May 26 14:58:41 2006

I've been having a front wheel noise for about 2 months My mechanic replace the wheel bearing which is completely sealed with the abs sensor but when he test road it the noise did not go away. Can anybody help me. Thanks Tom

Reply #1 Jeff (65.190.183.114) - Tue Jun 17 16:14:00 2008

I would rotate the tires in a X pattern and see if the sound moves to the rear.

Reply #2 Henry (96.48.2.42) - Thu Feb 5 23:04:05 2009

2006 Ext cab 4X4 Bought brand new. Drive it like an old man. Tone ring in rear end went at 20, 000km. Altinator wnt at 37, 000. Needed brakes at 38, 500km. Pully for AC makes a clunking noise intermitently since 10, 000km Now the torqe convertor has packed it in. Should have bought the Toyota.

Reply #3 Luke (24.247.75.135) - Fri Mar 13 23:43:07 2009

He could have used crappy wheel bearings.

I suggest USA made wheel bearings from the link below


Reply #4 car doc (67.166.98.144) - Fri Jun 19 23:03:17 2009

Have found most the noise from these differential is from a bad design in front ring and pinon set up not the hub bearings I have lost 2 front diffs in 57000 miles first one at 17000 miles bad design

Reply #5 John West.dle (69.125.172.99) - Sun Oct 11 20:32:46 2009

Hey Ranger Fans, (explorers and the like too)

Just finished replacing my "sealed" front wheel bearing assy on 2003 Ranger Supercab with 4.0, and ABS.

The lack of conventional opposing tapered rollers is sort of a drag. I would much prefer repacking, and resnugging the cones. But, the design is in place. There was grunting and grumbling in the front drivers wheel that was rather sensitive to right turns. My MPG dropped a few, as the wheel must have been crabbing. The best way to Diagnose this is to lift wheel off the ground, and shake the wheel. It was loose in every direction. The sloppiness is very evident. No doubt.

Tools:

14mm wrench for the brake caliper bracket

15mm wrench for the Hub/bearing assy

32mm socket on breaker bar to remove the axle nut (wasn't the best fit - mebbe a 31mm would be better? 30mm didnt fit)

There is no way to use a torque wrench on the Bearing assembly bolts as they are pretty deep inside the works, and universals cloud matters. Snug it good!

Had to use a hammer on the open end of the wrench to get the 15mm bolts off.

The Timken unit from Autozone was $200, and has all the "stuff" that holds the wheel on.

When you feel that wheel grumbling and feel a little directional wobblies, get these swapped out. If they fail, the

tire and wheel might come off the car!

Prolly gonna do the other side pre-emptively. Good for rolling resistance and peace of mind.

Over and out!

JW


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