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This forum post has messages dated from 04/14/09 through 03/25/12, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
|I have a 2003 F-350 diesel and the same issues are occurring with my compressor. The AC is very cold when it works then after 15 minutes it cuts off. I have had three people look at it and they all say the same thing. The clutch is worn and the magnetic intake is worn out and shuts the compressor down and it may not turn on again for 30 minutes. My local repair shop wants $1, 400.00 to replace and will not work on the clutch alone. They say it would be a temporary fix and the whole compressor will need to be replaced anyway. Is the system a challenge to replace? Is this a fix that a vehicle owner can do and or replace? I have done a lot of car restoration but not AC mostly body and engine work. thanks for the help.|
|Ford F250 Diesel, 7.1 liter, 2001. A/C works fine until fan blade clutch engages then compressor stops cooling. Only occurs when towing fifth wheel (only time fan blade engages). As soon as fan blade disengages, the a/c starts cooling once again. Have already replaced compressor. Got the Ford people stumped. Any ideas?|
|Mike R.- Hosing your condenser increases the cooling. You condensed high pressure r-134a to high pressure liquid r-134a. Your compressor worked because it had liquid to expand to a gas. You are probably low on r-134 OR have air flow blockage to the condenser. You cannot diagnose problem with out gauges and temperature measurements.|
Scott- $1400 to replace a compressor!!! I'm in the wrong line of work! A new FS10 comp is around $250. Assuming the compressor is bad(why is it bad?), you need to recover the r-134a charge, remove old compressor. ADD CORRECT AMOUNT OF OIL TO THE NEW COMPRESSOR. Install. Evacuate system for ~45 min. Recharge to spec and test. A burnt clutch will eventually damage the compressor due to heat transfer of slipping (HOT!) clutch. The clutch can be removed and replaced separate from the compressor. Again, you need to measure compressor performance before replacing. It's the most often 'good' part replaced in a car A/C.
TO ALL: It is not possible to determine the charge level in an A/C with manifold gauges (other than dead)! It is not possible to accurately charge system by measuring the low side pressure with one of the over the counter can thingy and squeezing gas in until you hit some magic number. Yes, your A/C will get colder if it low on r-134a. If you over charge, you'll never know it with a low side gauge! BTW, those can thingy charges can and do add a small amount of AIR in the system with moisture. This is very bad for the A/C. All A/Cs need time to equalize after charge is added. It isn't an instant response! Auto A/C units are large. Minimum is 18, 000 BTU for a small car. Larger vehicles can go to 40, 000+ BTU. Over charging increases compressor work load, pressures, and Horse Power drag. There are two predominant systems; Ford+GM mostly use orifice tube and Imports and others use TXV system. TXV is better for temperature control but orifice is cheaper. I could write a lot more here, but... Be careful with refrigerant. Always wear GOOD eye protection. Accidental refrigerant in the eye can cause instant and permanent blindness. Next is frost bite risk followed by, way down on the list, asphyxiation.
|I have the same problem that most of you report. For some there may be compressor issues or clutch issues, but I'll bet the majority have my glitch. I have rigged my truck up with AC gauge set in the cab, camera on the compressor, all sorts of stuff. What happens is the compressor stops for no apparent reason, low side, high side are perfect, no change, just compressor stops. I traced it through and there are four relays in series that run the compressor. There is the main compressor relay, then there are three that run it. One is the "cycling switch, " #2 is the "high pressure switch, " and the third is in the "Power Train Control Module" (the truck's computer). I have selectively jumpered all of them except the one in the PTC module. All of them are ok, for some reason the PTC, the truck's computer, is turning off the AC. That is as far as I have gotten. This is not something simple you can just buy and plug in, this sounds like a serious glitch in the computer. What does the power train module care what the AC is doing? I know on little 4 cylinder engines they have a module to speed up the engine when the AC kicks in or the car will stall but what does a 7.3 liter engine care about a little AC? If anyone has gotten beyond this point and figured it out, let me know. My next move it to jumper out the PTC relay (carefully-I don't want to fry my computer) and see what happens. I am being overcautious in checking every other possible cause first. Right now I am betting that relay is the problem.|
|I have a 2004 F250 diesel 6.0l with the same problem. I was very impressed with post #28's Allen's information. I wonder if it would be possible to bypass the PTC module without damaging anything? I bought the truck and had the normal EGR & Oil cooler issues, what's another challenge. Correct e if I'm wrong, but my Ford works on positive pressure instead of vacuum. If this is common to both gas=vacuum and diesel=presure it seems we could eliminate that? I think Ford put monkeys in the computer. |
|#25, Scott... It sounds like you're describing a 'freeze up'. Of course, it is a guess with out seeing the vehicle, but what happens in a freeze up is this: The A/C runs fine until the coldest temperatures are achieved, usually around fifteen minutes. At this time the evaporator temps are very cold, close to, or below 32 degrees. IF THERE IS ANY MOISTURE IN THE SYSTEM, it will freeze. Usually in the orifice or TXV. This is the location of the smallest opening. The system will cease to operate as there is no more refrigerant to compress; the system has a blockage. The low side will go to a vacuum unless the low side switch turns of the clutch and thus the compressor. It will not re-engage until the ice melts and the system has vapor to compress again. The high side will be self limiting as there is no more gas to compress and it will be stored in the condenser as gas and liquid as the restriction device (orifice or TXV) defrosts. This usually takes fifteen to thirty minutes.|
If the clutch engages and turns the compressor, why would it do it only once every half hour if it is 'burnt'? Answer: It won't.
An easier thing to try, if it hasn't been done already, is to recover the system. Pump to a vacuum for forty five minutes. Let it sit for five minutes or so at vacuum to see if there is rise in pressure. If there is none, recharge with dry refrigerant. If it rises, pump for another fifteen minutes and repeat. If this cures the problem, then you had moisture in the system. There are a couple of ways this could happen. The most common is charging from a small with out evacuating the charge line or a sloppy charge from a manifold set that is contaminated. Over time, moisture does migrate through the rubber hoses, but this takes a long time to happen. Usually, the 'charge in a can' are the worst offenders in this regard.
|my 99 ford powerstroke a/c works fine for about 5 minutes then it cutts out and blows hot air and when you shut bit off for a couple of minutes and turn it back on then its cold then changes to heat any suggestions email me !!|
|Here's one...on my 2004 F150 supercab, my A/C is on and set to only blow through upper vents, I get cold air out the upper vents but very heated air through the front passenger's lower vent.|
|The Super Duty F series has an A/C design that, well.. you be the judge. |
First, make sure that your A/C is working fairly well. How do you do that? Well, one way is to take a decent (meaning accurate) thermometer and safely attach (electrical tape works well) it to the evaporator outlet tube. This is the tube that is connected to the accumulator. CAUTION!; All of these parts are aluminum and easily damaged or broken, so be gentle! A ruptured refrigerant line is very dangerous and can cause great bodily harm and permanent injury! The dangers are blindness and severe frostbite. Use common sense and wear gloves and good eye protection meaning liquid proof goggles! Even when not running, on a warm day, the A/C system can have pressures near 100 PSI. That being said, once the thermometer is on the evaporator outlet tube, run the A/C for about ten minutes. The outlet temperature should be around thirty (30) degrees F give or take five degrees. If it is, then your A/C is most likely OK.
It is normal for the compressor clutch to cycle on and off. It is affected by cab ambient temperature conditions. In very warm weather, it may not cycle for long periods of time. The low pressure switch turns off at 20 PSI and on at 42 PSI. This to prevent evaporator ice up. There is a high pressure cut off switch if system pressures go to high and if that fails, there is a vent valve when pressure reach dangerous levels. If that baby pops, you'll know it! You'll need ear plugs.
Next issue is the heater core. In the Super Duty, it's located on the right side of the plenum assembly. This is located behind the glove box behind a plastic panel.
If you are having a problem with controlling temperature, or directing vents, this is most likely where your problem is located. There are a couple of vacuum motors that control doors in the plenum assembly to direct air flow. The blend door is controlled by the temperature dial on the dash board. The blend door is a servo motor controlled door flap.
If you have a problem with WHERE your cooling or heat is coming from, you my have a vacuum leak or bad vacuum motor or stuck door.
If you can't control the temperature or it goes full hot to cold, then the blend door could be broken as it is a plastic hinge.
If you can't get really cold vent temps (40 F middle vent @ 85 F ambient) and the A/C is fine, and this problem is especially noticeable when driving on the highway, then you may have another issue. I would be curious to know how many people have this problem. Post to the board please.
|2004 F250 Same problem as others with AC going out defroster only. It is a broken hinge. Is there any way to disconnect the vacume plunger and block the door in position to blow out dash vents.|
Going to trade it in this fall don't want to spend money to drop the dash.
Thouht about cutting a hand whole in airbox move the door and duct tape the plug back in airbox.
|I have the same problem with cold a/c coming only through the defrost. ('99 f 250 with 130, 000 mi.)I read, from another post, that there may be a problem with a vacuum leak but wouldn't the truck run pretty rough with that kind of a vacuum leak?|
How do you get to the damper door? Does the dash have to be removed like the previous poster says?
|What is a damper door? |
Anyhow, you can get access to see part of the blend door through the glove box. Open the glove box and grab both sides. Slowly pull the sides towards each other until you can drop the box down. It will hang on its hinge. Directly behind is the plenum assembly. Looking straight ahead there is a plastic panel with six screws, I think, that hold it in place. Remove the screws and this will expose the heater core and a duct opening. Then blend door is there, next to the heater core, off to the left. The vacuum motors can be seen when you drop the glove box. To see if they are working, simply move the vent selector knob and you should see and hear them moving if they are functional. The blend door is checked the same way, but by adjusting the temperature knob. You should see the door move, ignition needs to be on, engine does NOT have to be running.
An alternate approach to getting to the blend door requires removing the plastic cover on the firewall engine side that covers the evaporator core. This is a pain to do as you have to get under the truck as well as work from above. It can be done though. It's also easy to drop wrenches for up above that seem to hit you in the eye almost every time. Wear eye protection... If you need to move the evaporator core, then you must evacuate the A/C system.
|Your blend door problem is the vacuun canister. I called ford and the only way to replace the canister is to replace the Evaporator box at about 300.00 plus all the labor so i opted to install a new vacuum canister and located it where ever i wanted. I also bought hardline plastic tubing and rubber ends and made my own vacuun line instead of using rubber to minimize the vacuum collapsing the rubber hose and resulting in failure. There is a check valve down by that canister disconnect the hose from the canister and check valve and make your connection Note this requires cutting the inner fender well to gain access to the bottom of the A/C Box where this thing is located. I can supply you with all necessary materials canister vacuum line and rubber connectors along with a check valve and help you thru the process for a fee lol I have given you enough to think about tackling your problem if you need further help contact me And YOUR WELCOME :)|
|I own a 1993 F-250 4x4. My a/c blows hot. I just had it serviced less than 200 miles ago. When I had it serviced, they told me "no leaks". It worked for about a week or two then nothing. I believe it is still fully charged. It just will not blow cold air at all. Do you guys have any suggestions?|
R-12 system? Did you convert it to R134a? All that aside, an easy way to tell if the A/C working is to look at the evaporator exit line to the accumulator, and the suction hose (the big fat hose going to the compressor). On a warm day, with the A/C running, these parts should be sweating to some degree after a few minutes. The higher the humidity, the more water you will see condensing on the plumbing. Alternately, you can feel the evaporator lines with your hand. They should be cold, like 30 F cold. If they're not, then the A/C is not functioning correctly.
If the evaporator lines are cold, and the blower is working, then you likely have a door issue. One of the vacuum motors may not be functioning, a door may broken, or there may be a vacuum line knocked off or cracked some where. Blend door is a good candidate if you can't adjust the temperature. In other words, is the vent temperature real hot from the heater core? Temperatures above 150 degrees would indicate that you're getting heat from the heater core. Of course, the truck must be out of the sun to avoid heating the dash, yielding bad measurements.
|Well I see everybody that owns a ford like mine has the same problem with the a/c, I have always been a ford fan and I really like my truck ( 06 f150 supercab lariat ) but there is just that problem that the a/c is not cold and that really sucks cause I spent a lot of time in my truck, has anybody found the way to just make it cold? I don't care if I have to rig things up as long as it blows cold air. At this point I'm thinking about going for a chevy since my wifes chevy tahoe blows verry cold air and fast ( about 2 min or less). .... please let me know if u have fixt this problem or would u recomend to just trade in for something else|
|i have a 2003 ford f150 pickup. the a/c is blowing hot air. i have checked fuses and checked freon no licks there. It does not sound like the compressor is kicking in. I don't have money to put in shop. can you help?|
|Same probs eith mine it s cold for a while, then back to warm for 1 min to 5 or 10 then back cold??? What are the pressures max and low??And @ what rpms should I charge to normal 30 to 45 psi??|
|2003 F-250 7.3 Lariat, 190, 000 miles, A/C cools great for the first 10 miles, then goes off and blows ambient air. Reeving to 3000 RPM would cycle back ON for about 30 seconds. *******|
Replaced the cycling switch on the accumulator=same operation.*****
Checked the AIR GAP on the compressor clutch, = .035 inch. Should be as small as possible without dragging all the time. Removed the 5/16 inch bolt from the compressor plate (front) and took out the only spacer that was behind the plate. Now the AIR GAP is .005 and the A/C IS LIKE NEW.....VERY COLD ALL THE TIME - LIKE IT IS SUPPOSE TO BE.
|we have a 99 f250 diesel and have the same problems with ac.works gminute and hot air the next.i think problem is in the wiring around clutch.when clutch kicks out, i can move wiring harness slightly around clutch and compressor and it kicks right back in.when yours quits , open the hood and move wires a littleand see if it kicks back on|
|I have a 2002 F-250 V-10 gas truck. My air conditioning seems to be working fine except when I select "Max A/C", then I get a whirring sound and less air output. Is this a problem with the re-circ motor, and if so, how do I address this issue? |
|I HAVE A PROBLEM MY A/C WAS BLOWING VERY LITTLE AIR AND NOW IS NOT BLOWING ANYTHING , THE FREON IS GOOD AND THE COMPRESSOR SEEMS TO BE WORKING ... WONDERING IF IT COULD BE THE BLOWER MOTOR? ANY IDEAS? THANKS |
|No nothing, |
I got to the actuator motor as you said in your reply (#36) I removed the motor and it doesn't work when I change the selector.
Now, I am wondering if the actuator or the switch is the problem? What do you think?
It turns out the truck had a melted vacuum hose at the intake manifold. Thanks for the help.
|Need some help... I have a 2003 Ford F250 with a body lift and full replacement front bumper. A/C works fine while parked, driving slowly and running behind large trucks on the highway. When running over 55MPH on the highway, with no trafic, it blows hot. As soon as I slow back down it starts running cold again.|
I think it has something to do with air flow but not sure.
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