Auto Finance Made Easy! Get Approved Today.
Used Cars for sale - Used Trucks for sale  Buy Used Cars
Top Used Car Makes
Top Searches: • ford f250 air conditioner problems • ford f250 ac problems • f250 ac problems • ford air conditioning troubleshooting • f250 air conditioning troubleshooting • ford f250 air conditioning • ford f150 air conditioner problems • ford f250 a c problems • f250 air conditioner problems • f150 air conditioner problems • ford truck air conditioning problems • f250 a c problems • ford f250 air conditioning problems • ford air conditioning problems • f250 air conditioning problems • ford truck ac problems • ford f350 air conditioner problems • f350 ac problems • ford f250 air conditioner • ford air conditioner problems • ford f150 ac problems • ford a c problems • f150 ac problems • f250 air conditioning • ford ac problems • ford air conditioner troubleshooting • ford a c troubleshooting • ford f250 ac • ford f350 ac problems • f250 ac recharge • f350 air conditioning problems • ford truck a c problems •
a/c blows hot aira/c blows hot air, compressor not turning on when switch is turned on. copressor isnt locked up. any ideas?
A product that may be of interest to you.
This post has a total of 63 replies. The most recent 25 are shown below, you can view the complete archive here: a/c blows hot air archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.
This forum post has messages dated from 04/14/09 through 03/25/12, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
R-12 system? Did you convert it to R134a? All that aside, an easy way to tell if the A/C working is to look at the evaporator exit line to the accumulator, and the suction hose (the big fat hose going to the compressor). On a warm day, with the A/C running, these parts should be sweating to some degree after a few minutes. The higher the humidity, the more water you will see condensing on the plumbing. Alternately, you can feel the evaporator lines with your hand. They should be cold, like 30 F cold. If they're not, then the A/C is not functioning correctly.
If the evaporator lines are cold, and the blower is working, then you likely have a door issue. One of the vacuum motors may not be functioning, a door may broken, or there may be a vacuum line knocked off or cracked some where. Blend door is a good candidate if you can't adjust the temperature. In other words, is the vent temperature real hot from the heater core? Temperatures above 150 degrees would indicate that you're getting heat from the heater core. Of course, the truck must be out of the sun to avoid heating the dash, yielding bad measurements.
|Well I see everybody that owns a ford like mine has the same problem with the a/c, I have always been a ford fan and I really like my truck ( 06 f150 supercab lariat ) but there is just that problem that the a/c is not cold and that really sucks cause I spent a lot of time in my truck, has anybody found the way to just make it cold? I don't care if I have to rig things up as long as it blows cold air. At this point I'm thinking about going for a chevy since my wifes chevy tahoe blows verry cold air and fast ( about 2 min or less). .... please let me know if u have fixt this problem or would u recomend to just trade in for something else|
|i have a 2003 ford f150 pickup. the a/c is blowing hot air. i have checked fuses and checked freon no licks there. It does not sound like the compressor is kicking in. I don't have money to put in shop. can you help?|
|Same probs eith mine it s cold for a while, then back to warm for 1 min to 5 or 10 then back cold??? What are the pressures max and low??And @ what rpms should I charge to normal 30 to 45 psi??|
|2003 F-250 7.3 Lariat, 190, 000 miles, A/C cools great for the first 10 miles, then goes off and blows ambient air. Reeving to 3000 RPM would cycle back ON for about 30 seconds. *******|
Replaced the cycling switch on the accumulator=same operation.*****
Checked the AIR GAP on the compressor clutch, = .035 inch. Should be as small as possible without dragging all the time. Removed the 5/16 inch bolt from the compressor plate (front) and took out the only spacer that was behind the plate. Now the AIR GAP is .005 and the A/C IS LIKE NEW.....VERY COLD ALL THE TIME - LIKE IT IS SUPPOSE TO BE.
|we have a 99 f250 diesel and have the same problems with ac.works gminute and hot air the next.i think problem is in the wiring around clutch.when clutch kicks out, i can move wiring harness slightly around clutch and compressor and it kicks right back in.when yours quits , open the hood and move wires a littleand see if it kicks back on|
|I have a 2002 F-250 V-10 gas truck. My air conditioning seems to be working fine except when I select "Max A/C", then I get a whirring sound and less air output. Is this a problem with the re-circ motor, and if so, how do I address this issue? |
|I HAVE A PROBLEM MY A/C WAS BLOWING VERY LITTLE AIR AND NOW IS NOT BLOWING ANYTHING , THE FREON IS GOOD AND THE COMPRESSOR SEEMS TO BE WORKING ... WONDERING IF IT COULD BE THE BLOWER MOTOR? ANY IDEAS? THANKS |
|No nothing, |
I got to the actuator motor as you said in your reply (#36) I removed the motor and it doesn't work when I change the selector.
Now, I am wondering if the actuator or the switch is the problem? What do you think?
It turns out the truck had a melted vacuum hose at the intake manifold. Thanks for the help.
|Need some help... I have a 2003 Ford F250 with a body lift and full replacement front bumper. A/C works fine while parked, driving slowly and running behind large trucks on the highway. When running over 55MPH on the highway, with no trafic, it blows hot. As soon as I slow back down it starts running cold again.|
I think it has something to do with air flow but not sure.
|unpluged each plug and cleaned thm in the a/c wiring around compressor the day of my last post.has been working great ever since.not once has it blown hot air again|
|I posted earlier and had gotten through all the relays and such until they disappeared into the PTC module. Was reluctant to mess with that. Finally got a complete Ford service manual and saw the the PTC just contained a relay that provided the ground side of the compressor clutch. Had checked all of the switches in line, AC cycle switch (low side switch), High side switch. Clutch tolerance within limits. Finally tapped into wiring harness, since battery right there, hooked power directly from battery to compressor +12 (gray wire in my truck), ground to black wire to compressor. Put my "compressor cam" on clutch and hit the road while watching the compressor clutch. As expected, the clutch opened even with power directly to it. Cut in and out, more often when hotter, less when cooler. Replaced the clutch (cost about $80, took about an hour without removing compressor from truck, on my truck it is just under right side of engine, easily reachable from below) problem solved. Don't know if wiring in clutch opening when hot or clutch plate warping, don't care, new clutch either way. Now enjoying cool air and excellent defrosting.|
|If i remove the shim or washer from behind clutch assembly on my 2001 f250 will that make my clutch stay engaged all the time even when a/c turned off. Im also now stuck with max ac blowing out of my defroster and not going through any of my selected vent setting. Ford a/c guy that thought these a/c systems up should be hung!|
|reply to reply#52 I opened glove compartment and accessed my blend air and vent controll wiggled mechanical rod that controlls vent settings to find that it was just stuck. Still have problem with my 7.3 ac compessor clutch dissengaging???|
|I HAVE A 2006 F250 SUPER DUTY POWER STROKE DIESEL WITH A HEATER PROBLEM, IT BLOWS HOT AIR IN ANY CONTROL POSITION AXCEPT IN MAX AIR POSITION IN WHICH I GET AC. I NOTICED HEATER CONTROL VALVE ONLY GETS VACCUM SUPPLIED TO IT WHEN AC IS SET AT MAX AIR, IF I MANUALLY CLOSE HEATER VALVE IN AC MODE I GET COLD AIR IF I RELEASE VALVE IT OPENS AND I GET HOT AIR. CHECKED VACC. HOSES UNDER HOOD THEYRE ALL GOOD. COULD I HAVE A BAD CONTROL SWITCH AT THE AC/HEATER PANEL? I HAVENT REMOVED THE PANEL YET BUT I THINK IT IS VACC. OPERATED, AM I CORRECT?|
|We have had the same problem with ours.|
After reading this thread, adjusted the shim on the compressor clutch, so far so good. thanks!!
mom needs help
|I have a 2003 F350 truck I turn on the has and it works fine for about 10min then the has compressor turns off and blows out hot air. Does anyone know why? Please help.please emai email@example.com|
|Three weeks ago I had a dealer fill Freeon into my air-conditioner. It cost me $127.00 . They said it was fine and holding. A hour latter they said they found a small hole, and I should get a liner. Whole thing would cost $700, but they said it could result in other problems down the line. They said the whole was so small that it would take a year to find its way out. I started it up today. No Freeon. Now I feel I got screwed. 80, 000 miles F-350. I can't go with-out air-condition. Why the hell is this such a problem. People wonder why people switch to Foreign cars, and trucks. What is the cheapest thing I can do to keep this going?|
|"ford f250 a/c problem fix"|
This is a very easy fix - bought my shim kit at auto zone for $5
Check out this link
Shendoah Valley, VA
|"To Solve "AC only Blows Through Defrost""|
I had this problem on my '97 Mercury Grand Marquis. After troubleshooting to be sure it was not an electrical or vacuum problem, I replace my AC Controller (the unit in your dash with the knobs or buttons) and that fixed it. The controller was not properly adjusting the vacuum control motors that direct the air flow to the appropriate vent. I bought one used at Quality Auto Parts out of Chicago. It popped right in and worked great1
|"ford f350 heat cooling failure "|
i was told the heater does not have a shut of valve their's a door between the heater and the condenser this could be stuck
|"ac compressor short runs"|
have a 2000 f250 the compressor only runs when I start the truck with the ac switch engaged. it runs for about 5 seconds then the clutch disengages and the check engine light comes on but the code reader says everything is fine. I've checked all the relays, connections, and have evacuated the system and replaced the filter. High and low side switches are fine and so is the air gap at the clutch. The compressor blows cold on the short runs but that is it. Hope someone can help? Could the clutch coil be bad?
|"ac compressor short runs"|
Do not think it is the coil in the clutch because I loose current to the clutch when I put test light to the plug on the compressor
|"ac compressor short runs"|
So here is what I did. Tapped into the white/black wire from clutch (located between battery and vacuum tank) with a switch from ignition 12 volts. Turn switch on and compressor ingages and cold air
Share your opinions, advice, questions or comments on this post.
|Be Heard: Forum reply options:|
We encourage everyone to share their opinions, comments, thoughts and information, please consider sharing...Reply to this Forum post (opens small window)
Share this with your friends on facebook, twitter and Google+.
Open social networking options
This post has a total of 63 replies. The most recent 25 were shown above, you can view the complete archive here: a/c blows hot air archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.
|This page is part of a social network. People may choose to participate here for personal, commercial or other reasons. Please keep in mind that posts or other information here may be: 1) advertisements and not personal opinions, and 2) that any products or services mentioned here may not work exactly as the promoter describes or promises.|
Please verify all claims and use an escrow service for any signficiant purchases.