Ford-F250 -
2000 7.3 Diesel quit running after fuel filter change
Earl (69.134.237.2) - Fri Nov 21 10:47:09 2008
I changed the fuel filter on the 2000 F250 7.3 diesel - drove the truck about 30 minutes then turned it off - when I restarted the truck - it was missing (even though no plugs - thats what it seemed like) - i was about 10 minutes from home and it barely made it home - if it starts - it runs REAL bad - knocking real bad (heavy diesel noise) and then will stop.
Reply #1 john (64.12.117.68) - Sat Nov 22 09:58:44 2008
check fuel heater connection at lid for filter.there`s a O RING AND SOMETIMES WHERE IT COMES THRU THE LID IT SUCKS AIR. IF IN DOUBT PUT SILACONE AROUND CONNECION AND RUBBER GROMET.
Reply #2 john (74.33.194.106) - Sat Dec 20 06:34:04 2008
i have a 2000 ford f350 7.3 wile i drive it will start to lose rpms nock spit sputter than quits i have replaced fuel filter , fuel pump, came up with coad to change icp sencer change that stilldoing it i have noticed the fuel pump makes more noise than it used to old and new one any help please thank you john
Reply #3 chris (70.222.124.221) - Sun Dec 21 11:21:44 2008
i have a 2000 f350 7.3 i was driving it when it lost rpms and then just shut off. i replaced the cam sensor, icp, oil and both oil and fuel filter and the truck still wont start an someone help me
Reply #4 chris (70.222.124.221) - Sun Dec 21 11:32:30 2008
john you might need to drop the fuel tank and check the little screen filter on the outlet tube let me know what you come up with
Reply #5 myles black (96.54.19.174) - Mon Dec 29 17:39:23 2008
i have a 1999 ford f250 diesel i was driving up a hill to go sleding with my friends and i shut off my truck for about an hour or two.when we packed up and left my truck kept on staling finally it came the piont where it was very hard to start it would only drive for about 30seconds then it would die.when it did finally start and go for about 30 sec i had the pedal all the way to the floor and the truck was going pratacially no where.can someone please help me out its on top of a mountain and i would rather fix it then pay the 400 towinf fee there going to charge to come and get it.thanks
Reply #6 jeff (209.105.136.229) - Fri Jan 23 15:09:43 2009
I have a 1991 f250 7.3 it will start on ether and run for few seconds than dye wont start agin les i pull start i put a electoic pump on it and its getting fuel still wont start even on ether please help
Reply #7 jeff (209.105.136.229) - Fri Jan 23 15:09:57 2009
I have a 1991 f250 7.3 it will start on ether and run for few seconds than dye wont start agin les i pull start i put a electoic pump on it and its getting fuel still wont start even on ether please help
Reply #8 chris (75.250.115.121) - Sat Feb 21 14:53:10 2009
Jeff you might want to take the lines off of the high pressure oil pump to see if it has the right psi if not the truck will not start it will just crank over
Reply #9 ken (67.142.161.32) - Mon Mar 2 14:41:50 2009
IM WORKING ON A 1995 FORD 7.3 . FOR A NO START FOUND IT 10 QT LOW ON OIL INSTALLED OIL AND IT STARTED DROVE 6 MILES IT STALLED CHECKED OIL AND FOUND IT LOW . IT LOOKS LIKE OIL IN FUEL WHAT DO YOU THINK
Reply #10 mike (142.56.86.35) - Thu Mar 5 09:15:30 2009
This era of 7.3s had a bad air intake system.They would suck dust past air filter and resulting in low compression.This makes them hard to start also the glow plug harness goes through the valve cover gasket and these are problems as well.There is also glow plug relay, fuel heater relay and air preheater relay that can all give problems, and cam position sensors that have been recalled by ford.
Reply #11 mike (68.226.189.146) - Thu Mar 19 23:54:26 2009
question: I also have a ford250 - 6.0 diesel - driving about 3 miles and quit - will crank but doesn't seem to get any fuel - won't start at all. Its a 2005 supereduty - currently am thinking the high pressure oil pump needs replacing because the filter has holes. Expensive repair - any thoughts?
Reply #12 dale (98.21.81.31) - Tue Apr 7 15:26:07 2009
working on a 95 7.3 diesel , was driving along and the power dropped off like a dirty filter.we changed it it started and ran about 3 -4 miles then died now it starts on starting fluid will run for maybe 5 minutes then dies
Reply #13 curt vaughn (75.175.88.46) - Thu Apr 9 22:27:16 2009
1983 6.9 diesel will start and run but dies. crank it over a few times and it will start and run a few more blocks. runs good at idlr.
Reply #14 Mike (12.189.32.36) - Mon Apr 13 19:52:54 2009
I have a 95 7.3 in a F-350 dump. Was backing up with the truck and it shut off. I replaced the cam position sensor and it still will not start. Truck was low on oil. I re-filled oil. Still will not start. I am thinking of replacing the IDM. Is there any easy way to test it before I do?
Reply #15 jake (74.221.103.237) - Wed May 6 23:57:27 2009
if u are getting any air at all in the fuel filter gasket it will suck air resulting in failure to start
Reply #16 omar (74.160.33.200) - Sun May 10 11:19:36 2009
HI I HAVE A 2000 F 250 DIESEL AND EVRY TIME I REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER IT LIKES CAN YOU TELL ME THE RIGHT WAY TO REPLACE IT THANKS.
Reply #17 John Spier (75.31.168.113) - Fri Jun 12 16:04:13 2009
I have a 2000 f250 with the 7.3, it wouldn't start this morning but it ran great last night, I replaced the cam poss. sensor, still no start. any ideas
Reply #18 Rob (173.23.177.180) - Fri Jun 12 18:04:06 2009
Alright guys... seems like there's a lot of problems relating to this engine, lots of different attempts to fix, and it seems like a lot of people are getting fouled up with answers to other people's questions.I'll give a quick primer on diesel fuel systems, and a couple things that will make a diesel deader than a doornail. Diesel fuel systems are tricky things. They 'live' best in a certain pressure range, with a lower and upper limit (I don't have the numbers in front of me, but know that the lower limit is above atmospheric pressure, i.e. the system ALWAYS needs to be pressurized). Any time the system is opened, you're losing the system pressurization, and introducing air into the system, especially in the case of a new fuel filter. Both gasoline and diesel systems dislike air in the fuel line, but for diesels, it's a killer, due to the fact that diesel fuels don't explode, so much as burn quickly. Remove the combustible material for any significant length of time, and you can very well 'vaporlock' the engine. So, how do you prevent this from killing your engine? The short answer? Slow down. Double-check your work, and make sure that everything goes IN in a close similarity to the way it came OUT. When changing a fuel filter, for example, if you have a canister-type filter (like the Ford setup), make absolutely sure that the gaskets are clean, and lay flat within their retaining grooves (no junk under the rings, no kinks or cuts in the rings, etc). With an inline-type filter (where the fuel lines attach directly to the filter as opposed to the filter sitting in a canister), make sure that your lines are free of debris inside and out, and that they clamp securely to the barbs of the filter. I take no responsibility for those of you that try this next bit, it always worked for me, but your mileage may vary. What I've always done after a fuel filter change is to disconnect the fuel line DOWNSTREAM of the pump, and UPSTREAM of the fuel rails/fuel distributor (as close to the rails/distributor as possible) put the line into a catch-can, then turn the key repeatedly from "Off" to "RUN" (NOT START, except in the case of engine-driven pumps), and keep priming the system until fuel squirts into the catch-can ( having an assistant helps here), then reattach the line securely as quickly as possible (without hurting the lines or attaching hardware). Then it's just a case of 'pushing' the fuel through the last bit (fuel rail, injectors) and it should start and run just fine. This procedure is a lot like bleeding brakes. The system has to be in the right setup (fuel line disconnected, allowing the air to escape), or the procedure doesn't work. If you just try to replace the filter without 'burping' the system, that air pocket is going to sit in the system indefinitely (remember that air is compressible, where liquid diesel is not), and cause all kinds of problems.
Reply #19 Jim (68.115.153.192) - Fri Jun 12 20:21:13 2009
One other thing to help get the air out of the system is to use a hand vacuum pump on the output side of the fuel filter after you replace it. Then the only air left to purge is what drains out of the line going from the filter to the injector pump. I have a VW jetta that I have to do this on every time our it runs for a few seconds then dies and will not start.Good Luck Jim
Reply #20 jason (70.156.123.164) - Mon Jun 15 04:19:16 2009
hello i got a 1991 f250 7.3 in turns over wont start.I just got the truck about 2 days ago.and I think the fuel filter is new.it stat up for a year or so. thankxs
Reply #21 Ed (98.17.99.137) - Sat Jun 20 07:29:51 2009
I have a 2004 F 250 with a 6.0 in it. The fuel pump fuse keeps blowing. I unplugged the fuel pump an it still blows. I unpluged the wires that go into the primary fuel filter housing and that stopped the fuse from blowing. I plugged in the wires one at a time until I found the one that was causing theproblem. (its the one on the back of the filter housing small balck plastic cap)The truck still will not start.
Reply #22 JT (75.105.128.36) - Sun Jul 26 10:26:28 2009
i have a 2001 7.3 power stroke it will start run about 2/10 of a mile and shut down. wait about 5 minutes it will start again then die at 2/10 of a mile. Ive already changed the fuel filter and drained the separator found no water. any ideas on what to do next?
Reply #23 Chris (72.173.125.127) - Sun Sep 20 13:22:39 2009
I have a 2002 7.3 powersroke. Changed the oil. Oops had a spill, so I start the engine (with no oil in it, to get it out of the slick). Before I could shut off the engine with the key, I shut off by itself (I sure it is a safeguard against an adverse condition should one lose their oil). Now that I have completed the oil change, the engine will not restart. What is wrong? Do I need to reset some sensor, or did I fry something?
Reply #24 Mike Cardona (98.173.197.116) - Tue Sep 22 16:00:08 2009
I have a 2000 Ford F-250 When it was just picked up in Reno it was driven about 800 miles it runs great it died on me I checked the engine oil it was 8 quarts low it was full before I started trip. I added oil and it ran fine drove another 200 miles its 4 quarts low again it don't smoke out the tail pipe or have an external leak. Do re progrmamed power chips for the ECM hurt an engine this one has one it has alot of power. Can you help me on where is the oil going or what to check?I checked the turbo air to air piping and it was dry I spun the turbo wheel and no exesesive play was seen air system was tight
Reply #25 mike (206.53.147.17) - Sun Oct 18 10:20:29 2009
Have 95 f350 turbo diesel I replaced the mech fuel pump(lift pump) it will start but after warming up it will die. The first time I got it started drove down road was knocking and when I went to punch it it bogged down and died. I even changed fuel filter still same problem. Any ideas on what to do next
Reply #26 Chad (65.185.10.80) - Fri Nov 13 09:47:44 2009
2000 ford powerstroke started yesterday and died. now when i cycle the key i get no wait to start light and the fuel pump on the frame doesnt run. all fuses are good changed relays. doesnt appear to be any of the common problems. really at a loss here.
Reply #27 jared (209.86.226.22) - Fri Nov 20 15:09:54 2009
I have a ford F250 7.3 and 155, 000 miles.I was wanting to know how long is the life of a fuel pump? The 3 hoses that connect from the pump to the fuel/water filter are blue and leaking, I am going to change the hoses out and was wanting to know if I have to change the pump out or is it a sales pitch a mechanic was giving me?
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