Power window on passenger side works intermittently

• Previous: Older Post
• Next: Newer Post

Power window on passenger side works intermittently

This post has a total of 126 replies. The most recent 25 are shown below, you can view the complete archive here: Power window on passenger side works intermittently archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.

This forum post has messages dated from 06/29/08 through 09/29/11, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.

Notice that left and right motors are different part numbers!

(please remove the spaces I added in the web links)

Dorman OE Solutions 742-344 Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Front Driver Side Window Lift Motor. http:// www.amazon.com /gp/product/ B000E301X4/ ref=oss_product

I confirmed the part number at the Dorman website.

http://www. dormanproducts .com /application guideresults .aspx?y=1999&mk=PLYMOUTH &md=GRAND+ VOYAGER &e=V6+-+3.3L+( 201+CID)%3a+GAS %3a+FI%3a +N%3a+R&c=550 &cn=WINDOW +LIFT+MOTOR

It took about an hour and a half, not having done this before. Here are some suggestions, if I were to do it again. Put the window up all the way before you start, and use some strong tape around the border of the window to keep it from falling, while you are doing this. Take the key out of the ignition until you are ready to test.

Take off the door panel, after taking off the switch assembly. 4 screws, one is behind a little circle cover near the switches. One, the long one, is in the arm rest. The larger electrical connector comes off if you remove the red clip in it, don't lose it. You don't take the one screw out that is at the very top front corner of the door and screws toward the rear of the car, just the screws that screw toward the outside of the car door.

Once you have the door panel off and sound proofing membrane folded back out of the way, you can proceed. On the assembly where the 2 raise/lower cables go into the motor, there is a more or less round metal cover. you have to bend the 2 upper metal tabs slightly toward yourself on the round cover back slightly, with pliers, to take that cover off. On reassembly, carefully bend them back to hold the cover on, I used pliers and a tack hammer. Inside is a large white nylon pulley wheel with the cable wrapped around it several turns, in grooves. There is also another larger white nylon part which the cables enter into the winding wheel, it is visible at the bottom before you remove the cover. Try not to let the wires/cable come off the wheel, try to keep it all together maybe by wrapping masking tape around it all after you carefully slip it off the motor. It is a pain to figure out how to wind it back up, and which side faces out. The nylon wheel simply slips off.

The motor is held onto the door by 3 large torx bolts. The nuts are behind/inside the door, and if you have thick arms, it will be difficult for you to get your pliers in place to hold the nuts as you unscrew the torx bolts. These little nuts are actually round (not hex) and are embedded in a rubber grommets, about 3/4 inch thick, adding another annoyance. I tore one of mine, but it went back okay. On re-assembly, the grommet/nut can be put into the hole provided in the door - nut side goes inside the door, flat end toward you, not sticking out.

My pulley wheel unwound, so it took an extra 1/2 hour to figure out how to put it back together. Two cables are wound on the pulley, the one on the right is attached to the rear of the wheel (toward the outside of the car). The right hand cable comes down from the window, and loops around a pulley at the bottom of the door, before it goes through the tubing, into the 2nd nylon piece, then wind it all the way up on the wheel and put the wheel on the motor. The left hand cable, much shorter since the window is in the 'up' position, similarly goes through tubing, into the 2nd nylon fitting, and with a little pulling, can be snapped into position on the wheel. Good Luck! I am happy now that I have a working window.

My next problem is the right side rear quarter vent window motor. They cost over 80 dollars from Chrysler, very difficult to find anywhere else, time for a junk yard visit.

The minivan is still running very well, 252, 000+ miles!

I slammed the door and sure enough the window finally went up. Well last night my girlfriend and I were playing pool and I told her if I lost not only would I lose my "Friendly Favors" but would have her window fixed. I lost! So... Looks like I was going to be out $350.00 bucks too. SO... I went out and took the door apart. I then removed the coil cover from the top of the motor and found something interesting. There are 2 small copper spring loaded contacts inside it. I unscrewed the large copper center coil and pulled it out. I took some steel wool and cleaned the bottom of the coil I removed and then also took the wool to the 2 small spring copper pieces still in the mechanism. I then took some alcohol and a tooth brush and finished cleaning the contacts and then blew it all out with a can of air. (I repair Copiers and Laser Printers by trade and that's how we keep spring/coil clutches working)

Put it all back together and waaa laaa!!! It works like NEW! Now I can see that one of the spring Contact points are slightly worn and am sure if needed could be ordered and replaced for MAYBE $6.00.

I am sorry I don't have any pictures.

I did not see anything about the window coils being bound. Just that the motor has dirty contacts.

Hope this helps! Sorry for all the extras in the story.

Gary

It didnt realy work. After 1 mounth the motor died.

I finally decided to fix it this week.I bought a new motor it came with window assembly.Got it from a local parts guy 100$.

I just replaced the motor and not the assembly it looked too complcated. I taped the window to the frame so it stays up and and does not move. Removed door panel and cut weather barrier to get access to motor. 3 bolts to remove assembly from motor and after 3 more bolts to remove motor from door. Very simple.

Hardest part was door panel.And make sur you tape window well the motor is what keeps the window up. The piece of wood doesnt work. Slaming or banging the door works until the motor really dies.Hope this helps someone.

Well Tom you are the MAN and if yall still have trouble with your window read the reply #16 from tom helped most out!!!!!

Also horn not working? airbag light comming on? well there is a solution and that is a clockspring deal and it's a recal thing so it's free to fix!!!!

Peace out !!!!

So the window was sluggish but not very bad one day just stopped, so saw the stuff here the door slamming thing was not working thought that the block of wood wouldn't work (I had the door off and moved the motor a bit not much) thought it wasn't gonna work..... so instead of rambling point is is that even if the door slamming trick doesn't work the piece of wood will but you gotta use some force to get it working!!!! Thanks Tom!!!!!!!!

Is this a symptom of the brush contacts being dirty , or should I prepare for the big cost of replacement?

Merry Christmas

Dave

Symptom: the window will not slide down all the way. It stops about half way down. The window will go up but somewhat painfully.This is the driver's side window but I think this does not matter for this particular case.

I took the door panel off not without breaking a couple of the plastic fasteners.

Yet another miss-application of plastic the most common problem with vehicles

I watched the operation of the window and the carrier or elevator goes down all the way but the window does not follow. I lubricated the channel at the hinge end of the door but the result was less than satisfactory.

I looked inside the door and saw a bracket lying at the bottom of the window housing close to the door handle side of the door . I did not know what the bracket was for. Then I noticed a mark on the bottom of the window pane and deduced that the bracket should somehow fit on the bottom of the window. Then I took a closer look and found another bracket on the bottom of the window housing close to the door hinge side.

I finally figured out that the two brackets mount on the window carriers and fit to the bottom of the window. The brackets have a single bolt that tighten the bracket to the bottom of the window. There is a protective rubber sleeve so the window will not get damaged.

The bracket itself just slides on to the left and right carriers.

After proper assembly and lubricating the elevator tracks the window worked like a charm.

It is beyond me how the brackets came off the carriers. I assume it was a previous maintenance job not properly finished but I really do not know.

I have a 1999 Grand Sport Dodge Caravan and have had since 1999, (4 miles new off truck), and like everyone who has posted, the driver's window will not go up or down. This started back early December. What a pain. No drive thru's--especially the bank.

When the button is pushed to go down, there is some noise. like it wants to move. My van is parked in the garage. So, if anyone has the easiest, most economical way to fix this problem, aside from getting a new vehicle, which I would love right now, please let me know.

Dodge owner since 1992

the first one was my drivers side, the problem with that one was the cabling in the regulator assembly, it went haywire. it sounded like the motor was working but it also sounded like something getting wound too tight or something. after a bit of exploratory surgery i found the cables looking likr spaghetti.

that went to the dealer for repair.

Now it is the passenger side, the motor is going out but that isn't the main problem, the piece of plastic holding the window mount to the rail that allowes the window to slide up and down is broken. when i tried to raise the window up it got jammed and refused to move and i thought the motor finally went.

after more exploratory surgery i found the window was not alligned with the window channel in the door due to the broken clip.

So here is my problem, please help if you can. 2003 Caravan. Driver side window stopped working, luckily when up, so I tried it all, once the door panel was off I tapped on the motor and it kicked in and went down. But it wont go up, it is stuck in the down position. When I say stuck I mean that the motor or switch is stuck so that it automatically goes down without me touching the switch.

I replaced the motor because I thought that was it. So I figure I have 2 or more problems. The motor now works but as soon as I plug it into power it just goes down!

Any thoughts? I figure it is the switch maybe broken and the motor was pooched.

Help!

2. Simply spin the motor around and reinstall. The screw holes will not line up to screw back together but simply use zip strips to re secure. Be sure to double up on your zip strips because you should always have a safety. Make sure the strips are tight and test window to make sure it doesn't pop out when rolled up or down.

3. Please note that since the motor is reversed so is the function of the switch...so down is up and up is down.

Hope this helps...Keep your ride alive!

I checked a forum yesterday when my driver's window was stuck in the "up" position. It was an old forum with only a few threads posted, which ultimately didn't help me. For anyone with this problem, in which driver's window is stuck up or down, but all other windows work fine, CHECK SWITCH FIRST. What I found on the old forum that people suggested the motor/regulator was bad, because if the switch was bad, none of the windows would work. My suspicion was with the switch, but I took advice and bought the new assembly(about $90) and installed. Whaddya know! window still doesn't work. So I'm off to get a new switch. I'm sure there are alot of variables and what works for one may not work for another. But good luck all!

Thanks again

My 2000 caravan had same problem as Lori on driver side window. The window can go up but not down. When down button pressed, there is some noise from switch box. It seems it about going down but there is a connection problem which generate sparks, and noise as well.

I took out switch box by removing two skews at panel and then three skew from back. The switch box is a PCB covered with a black cover. After the covers removed, there is a two stacked assembly, top layer is PCB, bottom layer is actual switches.

There are two buttons for single window control. When moving windows up, the up button is pressed; when moving windos down, the down button is pressed. Do not fooled by this. It is the CONBINATION of BOTH up button and down button make the window move up and down.

Both up and down switches has two positions, ON and OFF. ON position is when the button is pressed. OFF position is when the button is released. The OFF position is used for reverse direction to form a circuit loop of motor. It must be have good connections on contacts.

1. When moving windows down, the circuit loop is "down button ON position -> up button OFF position -> motor"

2. When moving windows up, the circuit loop is "down button OFF position -> up button ON position -> motor"

If you do not under above logic, please google image of 'motor reversing switch' to get an idea.

In this case the problem always comes from the contacts of OFF position is not good. It turns out that the little brass is of little deformation. Since I have problem to move window down, then then problem comes from OFF position of up button. After I bend the little brass of up button carefully, the problem fixed.

i have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan and my passenger window only works intermittently as well, although if I don't let it go all the way down into the door well, with another person holding the button in the up position, i can grab the window and pull it up and that usually gets it to work. This one time today though, without thinking I let it go all the way down and of course it got stuck and would not come back up. So, after trying many times on and off for 30 minutes, I got online and found this website and immediately tried Kurt J.'s suggestion from comment #3 and it worked like a charm. Thanks again, i cannot afford to take it to the dealer and get my regulator replaced. i will just have to be vigilant and not use that window at all to avoid this problem again.

THANK YOU TOM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am sending $400 worth of thank you to you.

We encourage everyone to share their opinions, comments, thoughts and information, please consider sharing...

This post has a total of 126 replies. The most recent 25 were shown above, you can view the complete archive here: Power window on passenger side works intermittently archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.

• power locks will not lock or unlock (Dodge-Grand Caravan)
• Dodge Caravan does not want to start (Dodge-Grand Caravan)
• Car stalls for no apperant reason (Dodge-Grand Caravan)
• thumping underneath in front end (Dodge-Grand Caravan)
• More related posts for Power window on passenger side works intermittently

Related posts on other sites:

• Relationships with Bi-Polar people (Self Help Forum)
• british builder looking to move to bulgaria (World Forum)

• Previous: Older Post
• Next: Newer Post

Please verify all claims and use an escrow service for any signficiant purchases.