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This forum post has messages dated from 07/09/08 through 01/25/15, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
|regarding stalling for no reason on a caravan after many people saying they could not find anything it was the iac valve and now the car runs fine. have it checked out|
|My 2003 Caravan shuts off randomly. Sometimes it will restart easily while driving by shifting into neutral. Sometimes the starter won't engage the first 10 tries - especially if parked - but will start a minute later and run fine for the rest of the trip.|
Is there sensor or relay that would shut down the engine -*AND*- not let the starter engage?
Any idea what this could be?
|I have a 2001 Town and Country LXI with a 3.8L. I have the same problem were my van shuts off while driving. It has only happened to me at low speeds or upon acceleration from a stop light. This started happening about two weeks ago.|
I havent replaced anything yet as I dont want to spend money on a part that doesnt need replacing, but I'm getting to that point now because I have my kids in the van with me at times and this problem can be very dangerous since you dont have the best control of steering and breaking when the engine shuts off.
I might try replacing the crank sensor or cam sensor since it work for some of you on here. But the one thing I noticed when the van stalled and I was able to start it back up after pulling over and lifting the hood is that the engine was extremely hot and we have been having very warm weather here, the radiator fans were not kicking on at all. I stood there for about 10 minutes to see if they would kick on and they didnt. The engine stayed on while idling. So I turned the ac on since activating the ac clutch would automatically kick on the fans and they did start.
So although I havent heard anyone on this thread talk about the coolant sensor, I am starting to think that it may also cause this problem if it is giving false readings (eg. telling the cpu that the temp is cool when infact it is extremely hot) causing the engine to shut off.
The reason why I am thinking of this is after my van has stalled and I am able to start it back up again, I would turn the heat on full blast to let some of the heat escape from the engine and my van would not stall for the rest of my trip.
It would stall within the first 30 minutes of driving and after I turn the heat on full blast it would not stall for the next hour or more until I get home and turn the van off myself.
Can anyone more mechanically inclined back this up or alteast tell me if this is a possible solution for some of us having this problem of stalling while driving?
|My van is not stalling while driving. It stalls right after it starts. Like it is out of gas. I have a 98 caravan. I am not out of gas of course. It has just started doing this today. It drove fine yesterday with no problems or any signs of any problems. |
On another note. If things are going crazy in your dash and the check engine light has come on. I have even seen a abs light come on. This is your clock spring. Caravans are notorious for this. Have it replaced and you will have no more problems. Even if it does not bother you have it replaced. The last van we had did this and caused a short which caused a fire. We got home and after a few hours noticed our windshield was cracked. We opened the door and saw the whole dash had caught fire due to a short from the clock spring. It is covered by the dealership to have this fixed since it is under recall.
Another notorious thing is water coming out on the passenger side floor. You need to take the wiper off and clean soemthing out in there. There is a section clogged and the water has no place else to go. We had this issue and after hours of looking online we finally found a guy who knew how to fix it with directions. It took my husband 10 mins. It was clogged with pine needles.
Hope these help someone if anyone has a clue as to why my van would stall right after start up please let me know. Thanks!
|Update to my last reply (2nd above this one)|
Well my van is still not fixed. I bought and replaced the crankshaft sensor ($17 @ Autozone). Van worked fine for about 4 days. Yesterday the van acted up again. Worse than before. It's stalling at high speeds now. I would try and turn the van on again but kept dieing out as I moved the gear into drive. The van would stay on as long as it was in Park, Reverse or Neutral. The second I'd put it on drive it shut off.
After about 2 hours I was able to put it on drive without it shutting off but the minute I gave it gas it would shut off. Then the whole drama of getting it to stay on while on drive happened again. Needless to say I was beyond frustrated at this point. Finally got the van to stay on while in the drive gear, could not give it gas or it would shut off. I had to drive my van at idle (about 5mph on a 45mph street). I couldnt take it any more since bikes and people walking along the street were passing me up LOL. I pulled over in a restaurant and was hoping to grab a bite to eat and by the time I came back out I'd have no problems with the van. Boy was I wrong.
5 hours later I was able to get the van on, put it on drive and accellerate very slowly.
I'm trying to get a friend with a scan tool to come out and scan my sensors in the van. I'm hoping to find out whats wrong with the van and fix it so I can post it in here so that hopefully none of you will have to go through the torment I went through last night.
|I have a 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.8l with 330, 000km. I have previously replaced 2 fuel pumps and fuel filters(every 100, 00 or so), so when I started having the stalling problems, I replaced another fuel pump. My van starts and runs fine then stalls as soon as it gets warm (about 10 - 15 min city driving) and won't start again until it cools down (20 min or so). Once it cools enough to start up, it stalls again within a couple of minutes. The temperature guage never gets beyond the normal range, where it has in the past when I blew the water pump without stalling. I have an OBD 2 code reader, and get no codes, however, 5 sensors are still flashing indicating that the sensors have not been scanned yet. After replacing the third fuel pump, I have spent the last 3 months chasing this one, and, like Steve, have found that my radiator fans will not start up! I have checked the fuel rail pressure, and the pressure seems to be good. When I check the spark by pulling one of the wires and inserting a screwdriver and shorting it to the block, there is no spark. I feel there must be a cutoff being sent by the PCM. I have done primary and secondary coil resistance tests, and the coil pack is not the culprit. I am ready to replace the PCM (powertrain control module) at $600, however, can not find one available. I will try the MAP, cam position and crank position sensors. I replaced the cam position sensor a year ago when the van would not start, but I got an error code on that with my ODB 2 reader. I will also try going after the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor if the others don't work. I am worried about the fact that I am getting no trouble codes on any of these units, and that there are 5 sensors that have not been read by my PCM. It almost seems that when it is time for my radiator fan to be turned on, the PCM sends a kill signal to the ingition instead of a fan on signal to the fans.|
|My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan was stalling. "Check Engine" light came on. Diagnosed as "Throttle Position Sensor" ($20).|
Mine is located passenger side, behind engine air intake, between engine and firewall. Had to take air filter cover and hose off engine to access TPS.
The TPS is installed using two Torx(?) screws. When reinstalling, turn it clockwise as you are looking at it, slide in, turn counter-clockwise to realign the screw holes, re-secure. Took about 20 minutes. Good luck.
|Well my friend came by with his scan tool. Scanned the sensors and it was showing that my coolant sensor was reading -198 degrees F. No where on earth is it 198 degrees below zero LOL. We figured since the coolant sensor was giving a bad readout to the pcm, it was making the pcm dump more fuel, as on cold starts and possibly flooding out the engine. Bought the coolant sensor @ Autozone for $20, put it in and it ran fine for about an hour, then the stupid problem came back.|
I finally took it to the dealer and told them to reflash my pcm and to see if there were any software updates. There actually was 1 update for my 2001 T&C. I see alot of people spend a lot of money replacing their pcm's instead of just having it reflashed, most of the time that takes care of any KNOWN problems associated with the pcm. I paid $120 to get it reflashed versus $600 plus to get it replaced. (As a note, if your pcm is bad, they can tell by doing the flash and if you decide to get it fixed with them, most of the time they won't charge you for flashing, they'll charge just to replace it). Anyways, all this did not help, I left the dealer with my van still stalling out every so often.
Being frustrated after spending so much money replacing the crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, coolant sensor, Air intake sensor, doing a pcm reflash, removing and cleaning the throttle body and IAC motor, I figured why not keep dumping money into the van. I can't sell it the way it's driving and I don't want to lose out totally by junking it. So i went and bought an ignition coil for my van.
BAM!!!!!!!!! this is indeed the culprit. Changed it out on Saturday and to this day, no problems what so ever!!!!! Van runs great!!!!!!!!
I won't say this would be the fix for everyone, but if you've got symptons such as what I have been posting here, I'd say before you foolishly spend money like I did, replace your ignition coil first and hopefully you wont go through the agony I went through. I really do hope this helps some of you out. I've done some research after I replaced the coil and talked to some other mechanic friends and it seems as these coils are known to give out and sometimes even crack from not being able to handle the voltage being sent to it from the pcm.
stoonydeej, I recommend you do this since you had no spark. Even though you did the resistance test, the ignition coil works only when it feels like it, thus when it doesn't want to work, the engine stalls. Also if you do replace either the crankshaft or camshaft sensor, or both, make sure you get it synchronized so that they can both communicate to each other. You can synchrozize it with a scan tool. Some people replace 1 or both of these sensors and don't get them in sync with each other and experience problems afterwards.
When the ignition coil malfunctions, which is not often except for our Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep vehicles, it may not always throw a code, and if it does it will be a misfire code.
I really hope this info helps you guys out. God Bless and Good Luck!!!!!
|I have a 98 T&C 3.8L Lxi with 113, 800 miles. I have done the |
buying and replacing random parts thing too to no avail. Our
van was with a "professional" shop for 2 months and they gave
up. Of course they don't want to refund the money I paid them
to fix the problem. I guess it's up to me. Anyhow, Steve
did you replace the main ignition coil or what they call a
coil pack. I sent you an email before reading your last post.
My problems are identical to what you described.
|You guys with the problem of the fans not comming on|
I had to change my fan relay so if the coolant temp sensor
change does not help check the relay to the fans. It is very
easy to get to and change.
|I have a 2001 Grand Caravan with a 3.3 in it and it has a miss in the motor.|
|My car is dodge grand caravan 98. Same problem about stalling while driving, its scary coz it shut off everything. I found out that a big relay colored light blue under the steering wheel is loosed due to vibration and its weight. Dodge should put a safety clip to this relay . I secured it with a piece of pvc pipe and epoxy...now its ok.|
|I have a '98 Dodge Grand Caravan with 115, 000 miles. My problem is that about 1/2 times when I try to start my car, It won't start. If i hit the top of the dash, steering wheel, or kick the steering column, it will start if I turn the key again. It takes about 1-5 min of hitting the various structures, and when I say hit it, i mean Seriously hitting it, ( I hurt my hand)but its the only thing that works. Also, My fuel gauge fluctuates a lot, This morning it read over 1/4 and 2 hours later(of it sitting in the driveway), I started it and the Fuel Light was on and it was on E. I made it to the gas station in time, But it has become a big problem. Any Help please?|
|Almost forgot, 2 of the lights on the AC controls are always blinking, the snowflake one, and i forget the other one, but it is right next to it. Could this be a sign of something really wrong?|
|Here is my problem|
I have a 2001 grand caravan 3.3L V6.
The van started stalling and check engine light came on. Codes read:
P0106-MAP sensor has a baro reading below an acceptable value.
p1496-5 volt output from regulator does not meet minimum requirement.
garage changed MAP sensor and after a long ride same problem stalling and check engine light. this time a new code came up along with the same two above:
p0122- throttle position sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage
Took van back to garage, they said they tested the 5 volt supply it was fine but after an extended warm up tested it again and the readings were low. they said i needed a new PCM. they would charge $805, i found a rebuilt PCM for $275 and replaced myself.
Same thing, after a long drive check engine light comes on and spits out the same codes.
Can anyone help?
thanks in advance
|My 2005 dodge cravan, when I turn on (before starting the engine), all the gages (heat/cold , Kms, RPM and gas)shoos up to max and then came down.|
Also same time my radio and keyless entry is not working.
By thw way while checking fuse panel I found that IOD (ignition-off draw) fuse (20A) was blown.
I ma not sure changing the fuse will fix the issue, and unfortunetly fuse was burnt badly and one of the lag broke and left in side the connector, I have no idea how I am going to take it out ?
|Driving the van down the road it just died, the guages still had power for a couple of seconds then just went back to where they go when the van is not running. |
So it stalled, i would try starting it again and again there was no noise of any kind coming from the starter, then all of a sudden it would start. The mechanic put a new starter on it and now the only thing it will do is turn over, it wont fire. So at least it will turn over now. He put a new crank sensor on it, still no starting. he has no idea what to do with it now. I am looking and even going to try to call Dodge Corporate. I have heard some similar stories on here and have some ideas to give him, but just at a loss. And my truck is not running now either (hope it isn't contagious). Anyway, any help would be awessome.
|1996 grand caravan with 3.3 liter, same satlling issue as 95% of you folks, changed the Cam Sensor, Ignition coil, no luck...changed the CrankShaft Position Sensor and it worked.....now the Tach bounces between 1000-4000 RPM and has a surge right before it shifts into 2nd and act like it wants to die but doesn't?|
Ok I need some help :) I have a 98 grand caravan, and I have had a stalling issue, every morning when I go off to work the van will stall about 5 mins into the drive, sometimes I can get it restarted right away, but lately it is taking alot of effort to get it restarted. It will start and if I hold the gas down a little it will keep running, but as soon as I let off the gas, it stalls again. The oil light always comes on at this point, but I have just had an oil change and all wa looked at. I have taken it to my mechanic and he has reset the sensors and looked over it, but he can't seem to find a problem. He is baffled as well, because after these early morning stalls, the van runs perfectly the rest of the day.
Any ideas or suggestions I would greatly appreciate it!!!
|hay guys i own a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan that stalled for no apperant reason. so i took it to dealership, took it to reg. mech., took it to electrical specialists. i even changed the fuel pump, egr valve, distributor, fuel filter, iac, map sensor, basicly i changed every sensor in the van over a 4 month period exept 1 [i had a simular problem with my 96 chevy c1500 truck of it cutting off when it got hot which i took to all the usual pros & they found nothing until i took it to a friend of mine who is my pro & he called me to have a look at somthing of all the thing the pro did not check was the radiator which was empty do to a small leak in the bottom hose, so i fixed that & changed the thermostatjust for good measure. that was 10 years ago it has never stalled again since.] the thermostat, so i checked & sure enough the radiator was bone dry so i presure tested & repaired the damaged hose & changed the thermostat. there has been no problem since.|
|I have a 2003 dodge caravan se 3.8L. A few weeks ago it started stalling on occasion but would always start right back up. Then a couple of times it took a few minutes but finally started back up. I called around and was told the crankshaft position sensor was notorious for going out on these vans. Got it replaced did good for a few days and now it's doing it again. I'm a single mom with 6 kids I can't afford to take it to a mechanic so we will see hopefully it will keep restarting.|
|I had this issue and fixed it. I have a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L engine with 145, 000 miles. The check engine light would not come on long enough for me to get it to the shop and have it checked out. Finally it stayed on long enough for me to take it to the local Discount Auto and they checked it out for free. It was the Map sensor and was really easy to install. It took me 10 minutes. It sits right on top of the motor. I have no experience with car repair. I hope this helps, I thought I would never solve this problem as I took it to 3 repair shops and no one could tell me why it would stall|
|I had a hard time pinpointing a misfire issue on my 97 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.0 that only occurred after driving the vehicle for around 30 minutes. The problem only occurred after driving it for this time-frame, shutting it off for about 15 minutes, and then starting it back up. At this point, it would always spitter and sputter. It was next to impossible to drive it because it would often stall when placed into gear. After a lot of research and maintenance (including, replacing the plugs/wires and checking for vacuum leaks), I finally discovered my problem. It was two bare/shorted wires downstream of the plug that leads to the ignition coil. So I repaired these wires and also replaced the ignition coil and the problem no longer exists!!!|
|well this is it changed fuelpump, pump filter, o2 sensor rear, map sensor.iac valve, crank sensor, plugs, coil, wires, cleaned egr, cam sensor, muffler, filters, cleaned grounds, fuel pump relay, asd relay . WHERE IS THE ANSWER..help us out all you backyard mec's|
or do we keep trying on our own..have spent 12000.00 in parts and done labour myself..VAN RUNS LIKE NEW THEN ENGINE STOPS NO ELECTIC POWER LOSS JUST STOPS RUNNING..
COULD IT BE (1) A GROUND SHORT IN FUEL SYSTEM (2)BAD WIRE (3)PCM NEEDS REFLASH (4) HELP WHATS LEFT TO DO...
|To Dave: If you pull out the Cam Position Sensor to be examined, it's lost the tolerance it has to have from the cam itself. A new sensor will have a piece of paper stuck on the front of it that allows you to put it in and have it at the correct distance from the cam. When you start the car, the paper will be torn off and it'll be set correctly. You can't just put the old cam right back in if you pull it all the way out. Hope this helps. ^_^|
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