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Chech Engine Light Error code P0445, P0442I am looking for a solution to me ck engine light that keeps coming on. I am getting an error code of P0445 & P0442. Can anyone assist in this issue? I have replaced the gas cap, but no luck.
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This post has a total of 119 replies. The most recent 25 are shown below, you can view the complete archive here: Chech Engine Light Error code P0445, P0442 archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.
This forum post has messages dated from 03/08/05 through 05/17/11, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
|Thanks for the tip about a free engine check at Autozone. I will use their surface in the future.|
I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500, and the check engine light was lit for a couple weeks. I took it to a dealer, and they replace the "vapor cannister", which I assume is the charcoal cannister. The problem was fixed.
|have an 2001 dodge ram 1500 and the check engine light came on... i believe the sensor.. when it starts up it revs the RPM's to 4, when you put it into drive, it does the same thing... any ideas???|
|I have a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT the check engine light came on. The code is PO441 (Insufficient or excessive purge vapor flow detected in EVAP system) please e-mail me if you know how to fix this problem.|
| I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 and I am trying to find the plastic part that goes between the fuel filler tube and the side of the pickup behind the fuel filler door (it is broken).. The check engine light is also on. Any help would be greatly appreciated!|
|I recently had my check engine light come on my 97 ram 1500. Code Reader said code po441. Kind of a generic code and everybody has there own opinion. First thing I replaced was gas cap and I did the reset process. No luck!. Next I decided to check my evap canister, also called charcoal canister. All I did was pull the hose off and shook it and small charcoal pellets fell out. Means BAD CANISTER. Bought a new one at moparpartsamerica.com for $46.80 instead of $102.00 at Dealer. Also went and bought purge solenoid at same time. Both parts and shipping came to $88.00. This fixed it! I would start with gas cap and oil cap and remember to reset your code/check engine light!!! GOOD LUCK!!!!!|
|I posted in this thread before, so its followup. I can't find my original post, so I'll start at the beginning. I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.9L or whatever that big engine is). Its got 305k miles on it now, and the check engine light has been off and on for dang near 300k miles. The code started out as a minor evaporative leak and has been a major leak for quite some time now. No mechanic was able to find the problem. When it was under warranty, I'd go to the dealership, they'd put it on a tester and it would be fine. But the code would come back on within a day. |
So I can't count the number of times I've had a mechanic look at it, and the most I usually got was replacing some tubing. The longest that ever lasted was a week before the light came back on. And the truck was parked for most of that week By the way. After reading this thread, I was convinced it was the canisters. I hadn't changed them yet because the only ones I could find were around $500. So I took it to my mechanic for a tune up, he noticed the sticker was out, and knew I wouldn't be able to inspect it without an emission test, so he started looking at it again, and well long story short, I had the wrong fuel pump in it. It had something to do with the vents on the gas fuel system. My mechanic told me that in this model year, it was done two different ways. The fix was simple, he just capped the external vent because the fuel pump I currently had in had its own and didn't use that one.
This was probably not my original problem (I did have the fuel pump replaced once) but it could have been it. Anyway, its been well over a month now, so I think its actually finally fixed. Either that or the LED burned out.
|I've got 3 codes thrown, but I have no idea how long they've been happening. This is a 2006 1500 Quad Cab Hemi MDS.|
125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. Going to check the coolant level and clear the code to see if it reappears.
283 - Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit High. No idea.
447 - Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open. No idea.
I have a 2004 dodge 1500 pickup(8 cy. 4.7ltr)
Engine check light came on. replaced the gas cap and engine check light turned off for 2 days. Came back on yesterday and my truck engine cut off as i was coming in my driveway as well. it did start back right away. today the engine cut off again. i got the code read and it showed code P0442.
i know it pertains to emission, but is there a certain place i need to look at first?
thanks for any advice.
|i have a 97 dodge ram 5.9.. i just recently got it and i have a weird sound coming from the front end when i press and release the gas pedal.. i also have coolant leaking onto my front differential that i cant see where its coming from.. could this all be my water pump gone bad? |
|I have a 98 dodge ram 3.9 at first would run with gas to the floor now it wont stay runing at all grage cant find the problem they changed the o2 sencors and did a tune up seen there is a big crack in my evap canister can this be whats wrong dont want to spend more money if not fixing the problem|
|I have an 01 dodge 5.9 4x4 it was running good then all of a sudden it died at a stop light. It would start back and idle at around 300 rpms for a few seconds and died again. It did that a few times, thought maybe it was out of gas since the gas gauge dont work and fuel light is always on. So I put 4 gallons of gas in that I had in the bed and it still did the same thing. Had it pulled to the gas station and pumped gas in it only held about 7 gallons then gas started leaking out below the tank. Still wouldnt start so pulled it to autozone had hooked up code P0455 came up. EVAP leak. I need some help on what it come be. That was the only time its ever leaked fuel. |
|I have an 06 ram 1500 quad cab and i recently replaced my ignition. The engine light when away and now it is flashing I am worried but I have had warning lights come on and off before. Someone let me know before I spend a ton of cash at the shop.|
Claude C. Knight
|I have a 1997 Dodge 3500 Coach House Van. I filled up the gas tank and now have a leak where the generator is housed. Is that the area where the overflow from the gas tank would exit, at this point I have collected about a 1/2 gallon of gas in a pail. |
|What does the check engine light look like on a 2002 dodge ram 1500? It shows up on my truck in orange, but its a design rather than saying check engine?|
Reggie and Mike
|We found the two vapor canister filters had migrated to the center of the charcoal in it. |
My 1996 Dodge was not part of the recall, the dodge Dealership told us no recalls were ever done on my Vin#. A lot of of other trucks were probably missed on this one besides mine.
|ok to all the evap probs usually simple make sure tha gas cap is on tight more so than often light should take 24-36 hrs to go off. my prob is a little worse for me. been tryin for almost a year to fix. changed the comp. three times. codes are always diff. but leads to comp. change. i start tha truck, it runs great for about five mins. then it dies. i can keep it running for a while if i force it with the accelerator. but it seems like its gonna blow if i keep it too long. please help. ive changed almost all sensors. ready to junk it but dont want to|
|We bought a used 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 6 Cylinder mauel shift pickup with 120, 000 miles on it. We got it for a good price thank goodness. We had to have the evap core and heater core replaced. The problem is that the AC goes from blowing hot air to blowing cold. This happens when you accelarate usually. When you let off it goes back to normal. It also will not have a medium temperature. To get heat you have to turn it all the way to the most hottest setting and then if you want cool you have it has to be in the coldest postion. EX. if you have the air on and it gets too cold then you turn the selector toward a lower cold setting nothing changes in the air temperature. to get the temperatire to change you have to move the swith all the way to the most extreme red (for hot) then it starts blowing extreme hot. Same if you have the heater on and it gets too hot. Temperature will not change until you move all they way to the most cold then it freezes you to death. I changed the check valve for the vacuum line and replaced some vacuum lines under the hood and think I have no leaks there. Where else should I turn to find the vacuum leak. I took the dash apart and looked at the controls. The vacuum connections to the controls do not look detioriated. My next step is to change the charcoal cannister and the rubber connection on it that connects the lines to it. The truck does not run bad. Does not stall or run bad. Only problem is the ac and heat. I made sure the gas cap is on tight also. I am very perplexed. Anyone with an answer please email me.|
|I submitted this problem earlier. When accelerating ac would start blowing heat and not cold. After reading this forum I changed some cracked hoses under the hood then still had the problem. I then looked at the hose going into the charcoal canister. (larger of the hoses) going into canister. Stopped changing to heat after i cleared vacuum problem.|
I still had one more problem. I could not control the Temperature. I had to turn Temperature knob all the way to the left (red side) to get any heat. The problem was I would get too much heat. I would turn the knob toward the Cold side (blue) and nothing happened until I turned all the way to the cold. Then unit started blowing extreme cold. This was driving me crazy. On top of this there was an annoying clicking sound comming from the floor board at the heater plennium box. (not sure of technical name) The name of the control was the blend door controler. After removing the two screws that hold it on. ( one of the two screws is at the back of the control and is very hard to get to. I had to use a ninety degree phillips screw driver.
After going to www.Heater Treater.net I was able to order the part and replace it for around $30.00. There is a video you can get to from their site. The one I watched was for a newer model. The 2001 part was the cheaper and easier. I am extatic about this repair. Thank you all and Heater Treater.net.
|I have a 04 Dodge 1500 with a hemi 155, 000 on truck and have been having troubles with truck acting like it is out of gas with a full tank, half or less. and it doesn't happen all the time. once it starts sputtering down the road, If i push down on the accelorator to gun it, truck drives normal until i let off of gas and drive normal then the sputtering comes back. Also noticed if I push in the tow/haul button it will stop it from sputtering for a lttlie bit since RPMs go up. Check enigine light does come on but have not had it read. please help |
|i have a 2001 dodge ram with a 5.9 engine. engine light comes on and stays on. i can reset it by disconecting the bat but it well come on after a couple of days. it has 41000 miles. can one take it to auto store to find the code?|
|2001 dodge 1500 v8 code p0305 what does it mean|
|Thanks for your post. I used my own article in my site but google also required back link of the site.. Anyway nice post..I have used Google news and other blogs to stay up to date on a subject as well as Google Reader.|
|easiest way to get codes on your dodge is to turn your truck off then turn your key to the on and off position with out turning the truck on make sure you do it consecutive within 5 seconds and at the last turn leave it in the acc mode and on your dash where you read you odometer the code should pop up. and if you have a small evap leak and dont want to deal with it just take it to a shop and have them smoke check it. its easy and cheap to diagnose. really efficiant|
|is there away to get my 2001dodgeram1500 5.9, to pass emmisions with the check engine light that want go out because its a govener switch in the transmission so i can get a tag renewed with out changing the part is their away around it |
|I am having the same problem as most of you with the A/C blowing out of the correct vents only to have them switch to the dash when I accelerate. I have checked but check valve on the passenger side near the valve cover and they are working. All hosed inside and under hood have been checked with a hand vacuum and no leaks. I have a 97 Dodge Ram SLT Larime 4x4 and have been at it for a long time. Even though I had already tried all the suggestions I went under the truck one more time to triple check the Vapor/EVAP Canister. Well guess what it tuns out that the canister is bad and the vacuum hose running to the EVAP Solenoid was full of charcoal sand. This was the problem, that the solenoid has sand in it too. So the valve was open all the time and caused my whole manifold vacuum to be low. So changed EVAP Vapor Solenoid, used compressed air to blow the charcoal sand out of the rubber hose and put new EVAP/Vapor Canister in. TADA Now engine light is off, engine runs much better and my a/c vents stay blowing through the front vents when I step on the gas. I cant believe it took me so long to figure this out. THANKS to ALL for having your input here. After reading all your posts the light finally turned on and now I am happy again except for the cracked dash that I bet you all have tooo. |
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This post has a total of 119 replies. The most recent 25 were shown above, you can view the complete archive here: Chech Engine Light Error code P0445, P0442 archive. Your feedback, comments, opinions and questions are welcome and encouraged.
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