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This forum post has messages dated from 12/04/05 through 08/24/12, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
|I have a 2006 Sebring, ran out of gas and now the car will not start. Anyone with any ideas. |
| Hello sebring drivers. I am an ASE certified chrysler technician. I happen to own a 1999 Sebring myself and have experienced all of the problems discussed in this forum. At one point my sebring would not start. Replaced distributer, plugs, wires, fuel pump, crank sensor, and fuel filter. Still no start. Finally, I went to the junk yard and got the PCM out of another 99 sebring. Installed PCM, starts right up.|
That's the first part of the story. Now, the engine runs, but misses and dies at idle. So I removed all the spark plugs, hooked up a battery charger, and started to perform a compression test. All my cylinders were around 180 psi. According to chrysler service manual, the standard value should be 211 psi. The minimum spec value is 192 psi. So my readings are 12 psi lower than specified.
In my search of Dealerconnect, I found star case #K30646366 for performing a cylinder leakage test. To do this on a 2.5, you need to remove all the plugs, which involves removing the intake manifold. Then you pressure up each cylinder one at a time. About 90 psi is ok. Then you listen for a hissing noise at the tailpipe(exhaust valves), at the intake plentum(intake valves), and finally at the oil filler hole(piston rings). Keep in mind that you must figure out how to make sure all the valves being tested for that cylinder are closed. You might even have to take the valve covers off to verify the cam lobes are not pressing on roller lifters.
If you are experiencing a no code, missfire condition with accasional dying, then first perform a compression test!!!!
A compression test always will give you the level of structural integrity of all cylinders. Then if you get low readings like me, you can probably count on a valve job. I have a hard time believing that an EGR valve is causing the random misfire that I have seen on the DRB3 scantool. My fuel adaptives are normal which just makes me think the EGR is working properly. I guess the best way to eliminate the EGR theory is to remove it and put a sheetmetal plate over the hole. Then if the car still misfires, it can't be the EGR. I really think the main cause is burned valves. After all, it has over 100, 000 miles on it.
Good news for all you sebring drivers that have the 2.5L engine in it. I performed the cyclinder leakage test on every cyclinder and I got 98-100% on all cyclinders. So I put everything back together and removed the EGR valve for testing.
Sure enough, the EGR valve is bad! How to do the EGR test:
1. Remove the EGR valve from the intake manifold.
2. Place EGR valve under a faucet and slowely fill both holes with water.
3. Hold the valve up into the light and check for water coming out from around the spindle at the base.
There should be no water coming out. If there is, then air will be sucked into the intake manifold constantly.
After replacing my car's EGR valve assy, the engine runs like a champ. I have new champion plugs and factory wires. The only thing that is not factory is the cold air intake and a full body kit. I will be posting more info when I address the issue with the squeaking noise when turning or hitting bumps. I have ordered new struts and spring insulators. Take care and feel free to email me on any questions on the subjects discussed!
Merry Christmas Happy 2011!!!!!!!
|1995 sebring lx coupe 2.5 liter . no spark but you can get a half ass spark if you crank it for ever . i need help in figuring out this junk. have plenty of fuel just no spark!|
|Got crankshaft sensor replaced for intermittent stall problem on 2000 sebring. $251 Worth it to not sit on side of road. From reading this forum, I think Chrysler should volunteer to replace|
crank sensors for free.
|Looks like nobody is answering questions here. To car wont start, heres some troubleshooting. If it turns but wont hit, check your fuel first. Make sure your fuel pump is kicking on. You can also spray carb starter in the caborater. If it starts and dies, it is fuel related. Check your relay, fuel filter, or fuel pump. If it does nothing, check your ignitions. See if you are getting a spark. I have a 96 2.5 V6 sebring. Your number one cylinder is the left plur, next to timing belt. They should be 3 plugs on front and the other 3 are on under your intake. Take your plug wire out and place a screw driver in it. Lay it on your intake, make sure the screw driver end is touching the intake. Try to start your car. You should see a blue spark. If you do, you are getting a spark. If not, something else is wrong. The cam sensor for 96-00 sebring 2.5 and 3.0 is in the distributor. To replace it, you have to buy a new distributor. Before you change that though, check your distributor cap and rotor. Make sure your cap is not burned up. It may be the caused. The book recommends them being changed every 60, 000 miles. Check your plug wires and all wired that go to your distributor for tears. You also want to make sure your rotor is turning. Take your cap off and bump the ignition. Your rotor should turn. If not, you might need to replace the pin in it. This is a couple of dollars and can save you hundreds if this is the problem. If it doesn't turn, it is probably the pin. I have been out thousands cause of my car. I hope this helps a little. Also, if that doesn't work, it could be your ECM, electronic control module. This is the computer that controls all of your ignitions and sensors. Best of luck to you all.|
|Matt, I would say you get that spark when your car hits TDC. This is top dead center. Your car may be off time. Not for sure, but it is one of many reasons for no spark. Above are some ways to test for a spark and troubleshooting. Best of luck.|
|I have a 1009 Chrysler Sebring and it won’t start. It ran fine until Monday, I had a boot replaced and when he went to test drive it, and it would not start. We have replaced the distributer, and the distributer cap along with the crankshaft sensor and the spark plugs. You can hear it turning over and we know its getting a spark. It sound like the fuel pump is running but it dose not seem like its getting gas. Please help!!|
|sorry it is a 1998 Chrysler Sebring |
|Misty, hi! You need to get some engine starter or gas and spray it into your carb. When you spray it in, try to start it. If it starts and then dies, it is a fuel problem, fuel pump probably. Check your fuses first though if you haven't. Your pump kicks on when you turn your key on. You should here a bbbbzzzzz sound for a second or two. Hope this helps.|
|1997 Crisisler Sebring will not start in 8 degrees cold weather. Tried jumping it, nothing. Will not turn over or react to battery. Are the battery cells frozen? Is there a test I can perform without taking the battery out of the Wheel well in 8 degrees winter weather and snow? Is the computer frozen? Lights come on so I am worried it is not battery. However, even trying to jump with cables, car will not turn over, not even a click. Please help. Please respond. I'm stranded.|
|I have a 1999 Sebring 2.5 V6, this car has been a good car for me but latly its making me pull my hair out. The car runs grate no check engine lights come on but out of no where it will just shut off. some time it will start right up and other time it will take a day or two and then it will start up as if nothing ever happend. a mechanic replaced the distributer, plugs and wires for he said that this is a commen problem with these cars and asured me that this would take care off the problem. ran grate for about five days and then all of the soden it turd off and know I'm back to the same problem. A friend of my scaned it and found two codes P0645 and P0320, the funny thing is that the check engine light has never come on. Has any one have the solution for this problem? |
|My 1999 Chrysler Sebring 2.5 V6, dies on me wile driving, after it sits for a bit and cools off it will start right up again as if nothing ever whent wrong. other then that the car runs grate no misfire no lost of power runs grate until it shut off again and it will do it on the fly. don't need to come to a stop or slow down, it will turn off on the freeway doing 55, 65, 75 or at any speed. like most people I have replace multiple parts such as Plugs, wires, Distributers (twice) and have had no luck the problem remains. I need "HELP"!!!! Check engine light has never come on but it dose have to codes pressent P0645 and |
P0320 what could it be.
|If your Sebring is stalling while driving it is likley the map sensor. The symptom is the car runs and than stalls than will start and stall at idle or when slowing down. Change the map sensor its about 100.00 bucks at the most for the part and can be changed in minutes.|
|My 1999 Sebring jxi convertible has had a starting issue for a couple of years now. Randomly it won't start, but usually after driving for awhile. The only way I can start it is if I whack the steering wheel while turning the key. Does anybody have any ideas? I carry a rubber mallet to save my hand.|
|i have a2001 seabring 3.0 car runs when you sray it relace fuel pump and computer fuel pump works injectors not paulsing|
|ihave a2001 seabring it will not start replace fuel pump and computer car runs when you spray it.injectors not pulsing can anyone help.|
|For the 2nd time in a week my 96 sebring conv. 2.5 liter completely stops running while driving down the road. Both times going between 40-50 mph both times raining which I think was just a coincidence. After pulling off the road and trying to start the car again it starts after trying for about 15 minutes and then runs like a champ. |
Could it be the fuel pump? Or maybe just a sensor?
I can not duplicate the problem once the car is running fine, has happened at random both times.
|my chrysler sebring 1997 wont start. has strong crank but will not start i recently had a front end accident and since then will not start, please help if you can|
|I have 99 chrysler sebring that doesn't start all I get is a click from the relay. But a couple of days ago I found that the battery cable to the starter burned and I moved the cable and it started right up. Started everyday for 3 day then left it for 2 days then it wouldn't start anymore just the click. Getting power to starter and click from relay but one of the module by the engine makes like a ringing noise like what you hear in ur ear. Have no clue what's going on need help before I go crazy.|
|I have the above message hit me if u can help 7134209804|
|2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertable with the 2.5 liter engine. Fuel pump runs, engine cranks over, no codes, no spark. Checked the asd relay and it is not being turned on to send power to the distributor, alternator, injectors... I can manually ground the relay and energize the system. It is my step brother's car and he is short on cash so I don't want to just guess here. Any help on this would be appreciated. Thanks. 920-740-9264 |
|brought this car 4/20 had to get car towed 4/29. mechanic says timing belt. but then he also said the computer is not reading. im sick to my stomach. took my entire tax check and treated myself to this car. went back to person who sold it to me, he stated "not refunding or fixing unless you buy the part" when he told me the part was fixed when he sold it to me. ugh. what do you believe is wrong with this car. b/c i was told he could fix issue with timing belt but could not guarantee car would start b/c they computer is not communicating with whatever device they are using to read the car. |
|I have a 98 sebring lxi and it wont start. A month ago it started and died after a few seconds and wouldnt turn back on after that. I'm getting fuel, i replaced the spark plugs, wires, and distributor. Its turning over but im getting no spark.I want to get my car running so i can get rid of it. All help would be greatly apprieciated.|
|I have a 97 Chrysler Sebring lxi and it won't start now. Previous had computer fixed, fuel pump replaced, new battery, replace ignition switch. Mark was coming home from work and starting stalling when some to a light or makes a turn. As long as you gave it gas while holding the break it would continue to run. After sitting for a couple of days, it will not start at all. Don't have the money to have it fixed by a mechanic, will have to do this myself and with the help of friends. Please help and help will be greatly appreciated. My cousin was okay for a bit, but no getting frustrated. Need my vehicle running desperately.|
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