- Chevrolet-Venture• Page 1 • Page 2 • Page 3 •
This forum post has messages dated from 12/05/08 through 04/17/11, please be sure to read all the messages. If you feel it is old or outdated, please follow up with a question or comment and someone may be able to update it, or reply with newer information if you have it.
|There is a 7mm bleeder on top of the intake for your coolant system . Crack it will it is running till coolant runs out . bring up to temp and then do it again .You can burn yourself so be careful. May have to repeat but this must be done after every time the coolant system has been open|
|WELL GUYS AND GALS THIS IS THE SECOND TIME MY 98 CHEVY VENTURE|
HAS BLOWN A HEAD GASKET. I HAD A USED ENGINE WITH ONLY 24, 000 ON IT FROM A GRAND AM INSTALLED ON THE FIRST TIME IT BLEW OUT.
IT WAS THE SAME AS THE OLD ENGINE. PUT ANOTHER 50, 000 ON IT AND IT HAPENED AGAIN. BAD ENGINE FLAW. MINE TO HAD WEIRD UPS AND DOWNS WITH TEMPS GAUGE. THEN THE LOW COOLANT LIGHT CAME ON AND WENT OFF. I AM NOT GONG TO DO ANY MORE REPAIRS TO IT THIS TIME. USED SOME SEALANT TO REPAIR DID HELP SOME. LOOKS LIKE THE ENGINE MODEL IN THIS IS NOT TO GOOD. NOT GONG TO SINK ANY MORE MONEY INTO THIS ONE. ITS A SHAME CAUSE I REALLY LIKED THIS VAN, GREAT MILEAGE, GOOD RIDE.
MINE TWO HAD HEATER PROBLEMS WHEN THE HEAD GASKETS WENT OUT
BOTH TIMES. EACH TIME THEY WENT OUT THE SAME SYMPTOMS OCCURED,
SO FOR THOSE OF YOU OUT THERE WHO ARE REPACING HEATER CORES, BETTER CHECK THE PRESSURE ON THOSE HEAD GASKETS. THIS APPLYS TO THOSE OF YOU THAT THINK YOU MIGHT HAVE A AIR BUBBLE AS WELL.
I WAS TOLD THE SAME THING TOO. IT WAS THE GASKET ALL THE ALONG.
|sounds like a very common problem folks. Third motor in car. Now temp gauge goes into the red. shut off car hear gurgling. wait five minutes and start car up bring up rpms temp goes down and heat comes on. have changed thermostat, radiator, water pump. no water in oil. please help wife is getting very hostile!|
|Oh my goodness. I just purchased a 98 chevy venture that is having the same problem with the temp gauge going up and down. I took it to have it checked and I was getting a misfiring reading on the diagnostic. I will probably take it to my mechanic and see if he can repair without costing me close to $1K. If it does, I will have to pass it on to some other poor soul that may have the means to repair it if it is this serious.|
|i changed my water pump and it over my 2000 chevy venture|
|My 1999 chevy venture van's I had notice that my temperature is rising, I consulted the shop and they said the water coolant density are not good anymore so I decided to change the coolant, but problem still persisting, the shop change the thermostat and water pump but still the problem persisting. I checked by my self I had notice that the cooling fan are not running even my temp rise to half, Do you guys know how to check the wiring system of cooling fan?|
|reply 25 (bob) seems like the most feasible solution to all our venture heater problems. I also have a 2001 Venture (or DIS-ADVENTURE) since I first purchased this DISGRACEFUL vehicle. |
I've had radiator /caps /sensors /gaskets /thermostats /coolants /water pumps/heater cores all REPLACED. I even had engine rebuilt.
I can assure you, the next vehicle I PURCHASE will NOT BE A GM!!!
|Chevrolet's and the 3.4 liter are not the problem, venture's may be problematic! If you guys wanna bleed the system jack the front of the van up as high as it will go and then open the bleeders, and they also make a tool for bleeding the cooling system, it attaches where the radiator cap goes, I dont know if it will work on a venture though, you will have to check. It is a big bowl that you fill with coolant while the engine is running, it raises the level of the coolant to make bleeding easier.|
|Thank you for all the helpful comments!!!!!|
I too have a 2000 venture van, 80, 000 miles. Piece of crap. Had engine replaced twice already by 35, 000 miles, put 2 new thermostates in it within the last 2 years, replaced the blower, antifreeze is good, sliding side door fell off my car last week. It is currently blowing cold air when idle and lukewarm air when running. I am ready to junk it, put too much money into it already and never stops breaking!
I too will NEVER EVER buy a chevy again.
|The coolant system is very difficult to bleed. The dealers will have you believe that it is a blown head gasket so that they can make big bucks off of you. |
Symptons: No heat (ever) from front or rear heaters. Or the temperature gauge goes up and down like a windshield wiper (this means air is trapped in a cylinder head).
Follow these steps to bleed:
SECRET: Park your van with the passenger front wheel HIGHER than the rest of the vehicle. The passenger front corner is high. Park with only the passenger front wheel on a curb or find a driveway with a significant slope. The rad cap is lower than the engine so you have to park so that the rad cap on the passenger front side is higher. Higher is better.
There are two brass bleed screws on the engine. One on the passenger side, one on the driver's. With the engine off, open the driver's and run the COLD engine until no air bleeds out. Close and then repeat for the passenger side. Repeat until no air comes out.
Now open the rad cap and run until no bubbles come out of the rad, Close rad cap. Run engine for a while. Open cap and repeat.
A trick to help bleed the lines is to squeeze and release the heater hoses at the firewall- they are difficult to get at. Easier is to squeeze the rear heater hoses behind the driver's rear wheel. I found that squeezing the two rear heater hoses behind the driver's wheel like milking a cow worked okay. If the engine is hot, you'll feel the hot water start flowing.
Sympton - no heat at idle for Models: Service Bulletin No.: 00-01-38-011B
1997-1999 Chevrolet Venture
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1997-1999 Pontiac Trans Sport
1999 Pontiac Montana
Starting in 2000, supposedly this kit was installed or the problem fixed.
At idle, the water pump doesn't have enough flow to pump water through the heater cores! At speed, it does. This is a GM design fault!
GM solution was to add an electric auxiliary coolant pump inline with the heater core hoses. The entire kit for this procedure is over $700 (Cdn) p/n 10446377 plus 3.5 hours labor! Individual parts can be purchased separately at less cost:
10449179 - pump $350 Cdn
90335971 - bracket
10407728 - sensor
15364721 - harness
You can purchase Bosch auxilairy water pumps (basically same part) for VWs, Audi and Mercedes Benz through ebay for about $125 and install yourself. You can higher flow rate pumps called intercooler pumps also. There would be some fabrication required. I suggest behind the driver's rear wheel as the rear heater hoses are exposed and easier to get at. Put a toggle switch in.
There is no high flow water pump which would of been an easy solution.
|Some other things to do:|
1. Put a piece of cardboard (10" x 33") in front of the radiator to help warm up the vehicle in cold weather. Open the hood and slip the cardboard directly in front of the radiator - there's slots on either end of the rad that you can slip the cardboard in.
You need to cover between 1/2 and 2/3 of the radiator. The remaining exposed radiator is sufficent to keep the engine from overheating below freezing temperature.
2. Pull the fuse for the A/C clutch. If you run with the windshield defroster on and heat on. And it's above freezing () degC or 32 degF), the AIR CONDITIONER comes on! Add that with the idle/heat problem and you get COLD air.
The fuse box is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side. Unscrew the lid and the underside of the lid will tell you the position of the A/C clutch (A/C clu) fuse. There is a white fuse puller stored in the fuse box for you to use. Expect that it is very difficult to remove the fuse (10 A red fuse). There are some spare fuse slots: 19 and 20 on my vehicle that you can put the fuse so you don't lose it.
|Some have suggested pulling the air filters located in the glove box to increase the air flow. At the back of the glove box is a black snap cover. Open it from the bottom. Then there is a second black snap cover. Open it from the left. There are two filters. The first pulls straight out, the second is located slid over to the driver's side. Slide it to the passenger side and remove. If they are old and clogged, then you can replace them for $$$ or just remove them.|
I have new filters bought at 1/4 the price at a parts store for $65. GM sells them for an arm and a leg. If you already have new filters, it won't make much difference in air flow by removing them.
|I also happen to have Pontiac Montana 99, the manifold replaced, coolant was leaking. then the cam shaft broke, I replaced the engine. Now it is heating up. Replaced, Radiator, Thermostat, and a T at the Heater core, Still getting low coolant sign and gauge going up and down. There is no coolant in oil or oil in coolant no white smoke, Heater give hot good heat. After reading all the previous posts, it must be one of the things like air in the system, or water pump or a pulley may be serpentine belt. Will take it to a shop today. Thank you guys for the help will post result. |
|Have a 01 Chevy Venture Van - 172, XXX miles. Have the problem of defrost being freezing cold but the heat blows hot after I drive it around for a while. Gets hotter the longer I drive it, but the defrost never gets hot. Had new head gaskets in May 2009. Chevy dealer is now telling me they have to be replace again, that my coolant is leaking from the gaskets and this is why my heat doesnt work. So, sounds like you with the same problem need new head gaskets. Only thing is dont expect it to last. My 1st gasket job lasted 1-1/2 years. Course, that could be shoddy work too, could be they didnt do the best job the first time. Wouldnt surprise me if they used cheap stuff to make sure I had to return in a couple years to do it all over again. Head gaskets were fine for first 130, 000 miles now its on its second time needing new head gaskets. These vans are A PIECE OF JUNK. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CHEVY PRODUCT. Sad because I grew up riding in Chevy cars/trucks. It was the only kind my dad would buy. This van has cost me more than a new one to keep up the repairs, heater core, transmission, head gaskets, on and on...I've spent about $7, 000 on repairs and bought it used about 5 years ago. COuld have bought a brand new van for what its cost me to keep the thing running.|
|GM recommends adding Barrs leak into the aluminum block engines. This is to seal the porus Aluminum block. Unfortunately the uninformed open their radiator cap & believe this is murcky rust. Dexcool should be changed every 4 years no matter how much or little the car has been driven - PERIOD.|
a varying temperature gauge can simply be air in the system from a faulty radiator cap. when the car cools, open the rad cap. if the plastic overlow tank is full, and the radiator is not filled to the top, the cap needs to be replaced. it's simply air in the system, and at idle, the temp will range from 1/4 to 3/4. NEVER flush a radiator, just drain & fill with exactly 50/50 dexcool.
|Chevy Venture 3.4L gets a bad reputation because of a paradox. people perceive GM to sell inferior cars, so they have a low retail value, so the owners don't take care of them because the effort will not pay when they sell the car cheap anyway. I have an '02 Venture (original owner), and It's been Great, probably the way most feel about their Venture. |
Remember not many people read the internet about people praising the reliability of a car. I drained & refilled dexcool 3x already & make sure to add the barrs from Wal mart. Sure the dexcool looks like muck, but it's supposed to. And certainly when you bring it to a mechanic, they will try to sell you a Head Gasket job when it's probably a bad cap or thermostat. - they make more $$ convincing you GM makes bad cars & you need to pay up for that. Plus they can do a crappy job because when it fails after 20k, they know you will just give up & blame GM.
Aluminum Head Gasket threads must be drilled out & Timeserted with GM steel studs. the bolts cannot be reused - otherwise the gaskets will blow apart from the engine bolts pulling apart or stretching.
Don't put the Green stuff in, because you will need to change the coolant every 2 years instead of every 4 years. & you will not be able to reverse that - even if you swich back to dexcool. once Green coolant silica is introduced, it's there for the life of the engine & cannot be removed from the internal cooling system.
If your vehicle was purchased 2nd hand, you have no idea what the previous owner did or didn't do to this car. they could have pissed in the radiator for all you know.
Moral of my story:
drain & fill your Dexcool coolant & use only GM certified & I recommend premix.
|I recently solved the heat guage and blowing of cold air by putting coolant in the radiator while car is running then turning heat on high while bleeding the radiator hoses. Heat works fine now|
I have a Chevy Venture 2002 with same problems(bought 3 years ago, now noone wants for 1500$). And actually 2 years ago i again bought a Brand new GM car (biggest mistake) and the worst i bought extended warranty, Gm doesnt even cares when the car has warranty and when the extended warranty comes in, they dont do anything at all, doesnt backs up. Really depressed, spent 40K + (in 3 yrs) on these worst cars and couldn't get anything out of them.
NO GM VEHICLE NEVER-EVER
|I need to know how to replace the heater core in a 1999 chevy Venture mini van!|
|just fixed the heater problem with venture most of you just need to replace heater core.. its only 70 dollars and not hard to do... the dealer will run you about 500 for all repairs and including small shops same pricel.. im a small mechanic in columbus so its a lil different any questions feeel free to ask|
|I have a 2000 chev venture. The problem with mine is that it doesn't get any heat. I've listened for the fans to come on but they haven't. I've changed the thermostat and the rad cap. I put barrs leak(or whatever you call it) into the rad system but I think I am just going to try a rad flush cuz nothing seems to be working. As a temporary fix I have a cardboard in front of the rad. If anybody has an idea of what else could be wrong I'm open to ideas. I know there's nothing wrong with the head gasgets cuz when i put the barrs leak in the system it was leaking out so the mechanics automatically assumed that there was something wrong with them. My engine isn't even a year old and I havent put that many miles into it. My boyfriend is ready to give up but I love the mileage in this van and i want to keep it. |
|just changed coolant thermostat in 2000 venture van -- internet said to remove exhaust crossover to gain access-- DONT DO THAT-- instead just remove throttle body to gain access to that stuborn bolt-- it still takes time but much better way to go --|
|reply numbr 48 was the best u rule jason|
|2000 venture -- I flushed heater core -- now heats better but sometimes there is cold air blowing -- whats best way to bleed out air -- Ive opened the two bleeders and got some air out but im assuming there is more ?????????????????????|
|HI....I have a 1995 Grand am. I just had the intake manifolds replaced along with the thermostat. The problem I am having is while the car is driving and warming up, the temp gauge slowly rises, and once past 220*, the heat changes to cold air, and the gauge continues to rise to about 250*, coming very close to the "overheat" area. The gauge will sit there for about 30 seconds, then fall back down (quickly) to 200*, with the heat returning. After that the reading is fine. The anti-freeze is new and full. Any suggestions?|
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